Honey Valley Estate - Monsoon weekend

A monsoon weekend in search of frogs...

Reptiles and Amphibians are found in plenty during the rains and June-September is a good time going in search of them. Coorg is a diverse, diversity rich location and Honey valley estate is one such place full of life forms, both in the day and night! So, it was no surprise that we chose to visit the place again specifically for frogs and snakes in the rains. Jagdeesh drove me, KKT and Sandesh in his Indigo to Kabbinakadu junction and back.

Coorg / Kodagu come alive during rains, you can literally breathe the greenery around and the vistas of greens everywhere are a sight to behold. Rains during monsoon are continuous and sometimes pretty heavy, you need to be prepared to get wet and move around in the rains else you would be pretty much stuck indoors without anything to do. Leeches are again very active during this time and you need to take care as to minimize the number of bites you get ;)

Driving overnight, we reached Café Coorg near Hunsur at dawn and had a good rest before moving on as the road conditions deteriorate thereafter. We avoided taking the Gonikoppal road for two reasons, bad roads and elephant menace. Tackling elephants in the middle of the night in the rains traversing on bad to worse roads is not at all a good idea! So we chose the other route via Siddapura, Ammathi that was pretty much in the same condition, a restless rattling rain drive.

Our agenda at the estate for the day and a half we stayed was very simple, to be out in the field with your camera, you never know what you would find where and when! We checked in, had some nice tea/coffee and off we went on a trail looking for everything we could see, flowers, insects, moths, caterpillars, bees, birds, mushrooms, butterflies, shrubs, vines, trees, each and every thing that was on offer around us. If you have keen and sharp eyes, there are so many interesting things to see and observe that we generally overlook around us. 

The rains had held up for a small duration with the sun poking out teasing us and making us sweat on the trail. The estate has many trails mapped in a small book that you can choose to go on and come back safe without any guides. Each of the trails are interesting and with full of life. The sun soaking up the fresh green moss on the trunks of the tree made for some amazing vista’s that I can’t describe further. Those little droplets of water look like diamonds sparkling with the sun’s rays falling on them and the entire moss covered branch glows in the sunlight.

Rains couldn’t be far behind and while tracking our way to a waterfall nearby, we were drenched completely in the heavy downpour that lasted all of just 10 minutes! Luckily, we were pretty prepared with all rain covers, leech socks and enough wear to not get wet and not let our cameras get wet too! After a long trail and hot lunch back at the estate, a quick nap ensured all the energy was back for the night trail. In the meanwhile, while I was lazing in the courtyard enjoying the rains, a pretty Emerald dove made its appearance and vanished as quickly as it came, I could locate it no further anywhere else.

Soon after the sun sets and darkness envelops, the nocturnals make their presence felt with croaking, shrieking and hissing sounds all over the place. Crickets, Cicadas and Frogs are very vocal and their calls can be heard almost at every place. Night trail in search of frogs is very tricky if you are not aware of their behavior. In general, frogs are small in size and very skittish, the move around their territory calling aloud and warning intruders or attracting females. As soon as they realize, they are spotted they go silent and it’s a pretty long task to figure out where they are perches, either on a leaf, or a branch, or under the leaf, or on the ground…

Finally, after extensive searching and tracking, we got to see a lone Yellow Bush Frog (Raorchestes luteolus) located on a bush under a leaf croaking away to glory. The specimen’s croaking sound was so loud that you could hear it reverberate in your ears but when you see him, it’s a tiny little frog! This was the only specimen we found and we could not trace out any snakes or other frogs on our trails.

After a long productive day, we were late to bed but early to wake up the next day. Again, we went on a trail to a stream area nearby and it was pretty good the see just the stream flow, the cold water trickling down the boulders and stones making whirlpools and small rivulets, I had a good time capturing them with long exposures getting that silky effect of the flowing water stream. We got to see the same variety of frog again but in a different location and for the first time I held the tiny little fellow on my hand and it was a pretty good experience ogling at the fine details on the frog in your hand.

We left the estate at noon after bidding a customary bye to uncle Suresh Chengappa and his son and on the way we came across a dead Coral snake, pretty rare and venomous, heartbreaking indeed! At Virajpet, we met a kind hearted doctor, a brilliant photographer and a down-to-earth person, Dr Bishen Monappa (his works are amazing) at his residence. Further, on the return we took a different route to pass via Nagarahole national park. 

The entry closes by 6pm and we just made it in to pass through. The drive has to be slow and being dusk, a lot of wildlife movement happens and you need to be careful not to scare them or bump into any. The road was littered with numerous frogs and the atmosphere full of croaks and we also saw a couple of Russell’s viper on the road. Luckily, as we were ahead, we could stop and allow them to cross over being subject to some irate honking from the vehicles behind us.

Place: Honey Valley Estate

Contact: Mr Suresh Chengappa

http://honeyvalleyindia.in/

Phone: 08272-238339/200325

Route: Bangalore-Srirangapatna-Hunsur-Periyapatna-Siddapura-Ammathi-Virajpete-Kabbinakad junction (a left here on the cement road will take you to the estate about 5kms away)

Return: Kabbinakad junction-Virajpete-Srimangala-Kutta-Karmadu-Hunsur-Bangalore

Honey Valley Estate, Kodagu

Got to know about this retreat from the always helpful Aravind, Sankara and Amit. Called up Suresh of Honey Valley Estate, Coorg and after a long discussion booked the 2 thatched huts for the weekend for 3 of us as Raja was not in and me, Guru and Nag were supposed to go.

Honey valley estate is located near Kabbinakad junction in the heart of Kodagu(Coorg) district, about 250kms from Bangalore. Finally Guru also dropped out and out went the idea of biking to this place, finally we traveled by the ever dependable KSRTC services. Karnataka Sarige express buses ply directly from Bangalore to Kabbinakad junction and Virajpet is the nearest point if you prefer to travel the Airavata way and from there lot of private buses travel on these routes.

(Shot by Nag who says has no interest in shooting but lifts my camera stealthily and fires a couple of shots...)
Generally thatched huts are not let out to the general visitors as they are very basic, rustic and would not suit people looking for comfort, but we managed to convince Suresh that we would be fine and we enjoyed staying in the hut. You don't need an AC when the chill wind blows from all 4 sides right :)

As we traveled by bus, either we had to hire a jeep or walk up the distance till the homestay from Kabbinakad junction and no guesses for what we opted for! Landed prior to 6am at Kabbinakad junction and the weather still being gloom, cloudy and dark. Rested at the post office till traces of light appeared and then started the uphill early morning walk towards our destination.

Concrete roads are laid till the parking lot from where only 4*4 vehicles traverse for the rest couple of kms. As we ascended slowly taking our time, we were treated to some wonderful valley views and vistas with the sun trying to break cover from the clouds and in constant companion of the chirping birds.

As you proceed ahead, we first get to see the Chingaara property, a little more luxurious than the Honey valley estate property that is managed by Suresh Chengappa's son. Past this and uphill further, we finally reached the homestay, a little tired but worth the effort nevertheless. Stunning vistas awaited us and we loved the locale no end, absolutely wild, in midst of thick estates and hills surrounding you closer to the Tadiandamol peak (Kakkabbe, the place where we started for Tadiandamol was hardly couple of kms away from Kabbinakad junction).

We had plans to wander out to visit a couple of waterfalls nearby as we are so well known, our laziness played a domineering role and so it ended that for the time we were there, we went nowhere except for a small hike behind the property :)

Well, there are lot of trails in and around the property and they have documented it and made a small handbook of it, great! But, as it should be, whatever books you carry, you should follow your instincts to not get lost and if lost too, use back your instincts to get back and that's what most of the casual travelers won't do. The trails are smaller and bigger taking hours to a complete day and it sure is a wonderful experience in itself.

Food served at Honey valley is more of a general cuisine rather than a Coorgi delight, We discussed about this with Suresh and he had a valid point in saying people prefer it this way and the lot of foreigners to who visit this place. The home made jam and honey were a real treat as were the locally prepared chocolates.

Leeches were omnipresent everywhere and probably for the first time not one bit me and all thanks to the Ruggers socks that I wore. Just recovering from an bad foot infection, I didn't want to take any chances and so was well stocked and it worked. Poor Nag bore all the brunt of few bites he got all over and some in places you can't believe :)

Birding was sparse and limited with the cloudy weather not helping, but still a few walks and patient waiting yielded a few results, I would need to visit here only for bird watching sometime soon. The sunbirds were all over the place, so as the wagtail, wagging nonchalantly. The Parakeets were a real treat hovering all around with their tweet tweets and so did I got a glimpse of Asian Fairy bluebird couple in the open, but at a distance.

We thought we had just come in and it was already time to move, we left the place with an absolute no liking to go back... it happens to us always :) We took more than a couple of hours to reach the main road buttering all the way slowly downhill. What I meant is watching those lovely little butterflies and trying to capture them whenever I could. If you are behind butterflies, an hours journey will easily take more than a couple and we had planned ample time for that. Nag was patient enough accompanying me and that's the bonding in our group (however wrong our thoughts may be, they never let me down in the field, blessed to have such pals!).

We took the local bus to Virajpet and after the dinner at the local eatery (till now I have not been able to figure out a good veggie eating place in Virajpet :() boarded the Airavata Volvo towards Bangalore. Rode back home from the SMTC bus stand (KSRTC Mysore road bus terminal) on Nag's bike that we had parked there and thus ended our eventful Kodagu visit.

Butterflies are added to my new list of interests and they never cease to amaze me. Being the size of my thumb and how gorgeous they are created, those intricate patterns, looks like a designer crafted their wings. There are separate posts showcasing these butterflies and that portfolio is rapidly expanding. Few of them that I have succeeded in identifying are:-
Blue Tiger
Grey Pansy
Common Hedge Blue
Gladeye Bush Brown
Common Dart
Three Spot Grass Yellow
Chocolate Pansy
Fulvous Pied Flat
Blue Mormon
...and wish I had the patience to see more!


Bird check list:-
Cattle Egret
House Crow
Jungle Crow
Greated Coucal
Jungle Mynah
Hill Mynah
White Cheeked Barbet
Coppersmith Barbet
Purple Rumped Sunbird
Crimson Backed Sunbird
Grey Wagtail
Black Drongo
Ashy Drongo
Racquet Tailed Drongo
Rose Ringed Parakeet
Plum Headed Parakeet
Malabar Parakeet
Vernal Hanging Parrot
Malabar Grey Hornbill
Orange Minivet
Laughing Dove
Spotted Dove
Oriental White Eye
Red Whiskered Bulbul
Red Vented Bulbul
Yellow Browed Bulbul
Eurasian Blackbird
Asian Fairy Bluebird

Info:-
Honey Valley Estate - http://honeyvalleyindia.in/AboutUs.html
Chingaara - http://www.chingaara.com/aboutus.html
Contact - Suresh Chengappa
Phone - 08272 238339 / 200325

Tadiandamol

Tadiandamol - the highest peak in the Kodagu district in Karnataka.

Kodagu (anglicised name Coorg) is on the eastern slopes of the Western Ghats. It is hilly district with the lowest elevation in the district at 900 meters (2,900 ft) above sea-level. The highest peak, Tadiandamol, rises to 1,750 meters (5,700 ft), with Pushpagiri, the second highest, at 1,715 meters (5,600 ft). Headcount from 8 people to 7 to finally 6 started off the planning for this trek. Tadiandamol was not the first option but the backup plan only if the Jodigere trek failed and it never took off and so happenned the trek to Tadiandamol.

Planning: With absolutely no idea of how to approach, came to our rescue was this blog of santosh bs (surprising thing is he shares the same name with the initials as mine!!!). The problem of finding a base place and accommodation with food was solved as also the route to be taken. With the initial plans of going by Badri's Tata estate shelved, I booked tickets on our old flame the KSRTC Karnataka Sarige for 6 people on 28th nov. Now all buses towards Mysore, Kodagu, Virajpet, Ooty.... start from the SMTC bus station on Mysore road. Me, Raja, Guru, Nag, Manoj & Nishant were on this expedition, the bus finally left by 11pm and we were almost in deep slumber instantly. Woke up at 1am to find ourselves at Mysore bus stand (Phew! just 2 hrs ride to mysore that too in a KSRTC express bus!). From there we reached Virajpet by 2am and there the driver dozed off for a rest of 2hrs. At 5am we got down at Kaikambha (Kakkabe) to find absolutely no soul around and we just stood waiting in the dark for someone to ask directions for.

(-- the trekkers ready for the expedition...)

We later realized we had to get down more than a km before to go to the Nalknad palace where our base camping was to be. From that junction it was to be another 4kms trek to our place. Early morning chill, heavy backpacks and steep ascent made the walk all the more difficult and breathless (we got to know later an alternate route upto Nalknad palace).

(-- cloud cover just beside the road we walked upon...)

The road is tarred up to almost 3kms where vehicles can be parked on the roadsides and endure on the trek. As we finally reached our base camp, overall early moring on empty stomachs we had walked for about 6kms and the trek was yet to start and it took us a good 2 hours for the steep walk. Actually the place where we stayed is under litigation and the caretaker there, Thammanna lets it out to trekkers for resting and serves food too. Its a beautiful place, greenery all around but damn cold and increases as you go up the altitude.We freshned up quickly, ate whatever was served for breakfast, left the extra baggages there and were ready for the trek. We wished to stay atop the peak but lack of proper tents and equipment held us back but thammanna offered to put up a covering tent near the base of the peak where generally all trekkers camp and is the last source of water on the trek. We agreed and asking thammanna to be at the big rock (Its a notable huge rock which serves as a natural guardian for the high winds and preferred camping place by many as firewood and wate is easily available) by 3pm with the lunch and tent materials we started off on one of our most awaited treks of the year.

(-- a distant view of the pushpagiri range...)

(-- the target peak in the extreme background...)

Time: 11.20am - We started off and the trek up to the huge rock is flat with not much of strain. We reached there by 12 noon after the numerous sessions of photography enroute. After a brief rest and filling up water from the nearby stream (leeches were here again... and this time Nag was their favorite candidate!)

(-- the base camp near the big rock & water source where we were to spend the night...)

We started by 12.15 pm to conquer Tadiandamol. There are definite paths leading into the mountains but you don't generally climb the ones you see ahead, the path which keeps going straight abruptly turns in one direction and you start ascending a different peak altogether. This series of uphills interspersed with shola forests is the highlight of the trek. It was steep and it was getting steeper, the backpacks, water bottles, cameras and even the jerkins started feeling heavier as the minute passed by and our legs started dancing (trembling due to stress), no place to rest and just an uphill steep climb and no sight of the mighty peak.

(-- Ah! finally the peak is visible at the far end ...)

After series of crossing peaks and shola forests, gradually the peak was visible which somehow rejuvenated our energies and we were all trekking up to reach the summit. As we took breaks in b/w, the view of the endless sight of mountain ranges mixed with the green forest cover and with cool breeze slamming our faces made the trek worthwile and our fatigue vanish. After nearly 90 minutes of strenous uphill trek, finally finally we were at the TOP of the Tadiandomol peak (the highest elevation in the Kodagu district) and one of the highest peaks in Karnataka.

(-- Mission accomplished - relieved trekkers atop Tadiandamol....; L-R - Manoja, Nishanth, Nag, Raja, Guru & Me)

(-- Perfect background for a photoshoot -- Manoja capturing Nishanth here...)

Wow wow! A sense of relief, exhilaration, joy, some pride - the feeling of being on top of the world cant be described in words, its to be felt and enjoyed. Still being mid afternoon, the weather was not hot but quite cool and because of the trek we were sweating and it was time to do a ganguly aka flintoff act and rest. Raja dozed off on a rock for some time in the sun and with loud snoring!!!

(-- Raja can sleep anywhere, anytime -- here on a rock, under the sun with loud snores - heavenly sleep...)

...and we others were lazing around, clicking photos, butterflies, just relaxing enjoying the cool weather out there. We also realized why camping here is extremely difficult, open narrow hilltop with shola forest on one side depth and gorge on other sides, no boulders to shield the winds and no firewood in sight and moist land. The wind speeds are very high during the nights (upto 60km/hr) and the temperature atop drops drastically and the main thing is carrying all the camping stuff to the peak is itself an arduous task and water is scarce too. After a hour long break, rest and fulfilling nature sights all across we swiftly descended down to the big boulder which was to be our camp site for the night, the descent took us just around 40 mts but by the time we reached the base our legs were trembling!!! It was 4.30 and no signs of thammanna nor the camp material nor the lunch! A few minutes of agonizing wait, poor network coverage and finally got thammanna on the line and he was on his way, words of Relief! Our messaiah arrived with the food and the materials for the tent and by then we had collected enough firewood to last for the night. We gobbled the food supplied as all of us were damn hungry and relaxed as the tent was being set up.

(-- the open tent set up for the night; u can see the hole on the right that messed up things later...)

It was an open tent with the tarpaulin covered on 2 sides and the other two sides open. Well we had to spend the night in this and with the temperature dipping all of us were braving for the adventurous night in store for us. Thammanna set up the camp fire for us, set up the tent and bid us goodbye to be back the next morning to retrieve all the materials.


7:00 pm - It was getting dark and the intensity of breeze increasing and the temperature dipping and we had also realized there was a big hole in the tent which would be right above us and in the case it rained we would have a gala time. Close to 8pm, it really happened and it started raining! Water started leaking inside wetting the dry tarpaulin inside and then all of us rushed out and decided to interchange the tent putting the hole in the opposite direction of the rain. All of us got drenched and the tarpaulin too but the firewood was safe and dry. It just rained for 5 minutes and those 300 seconds were enough to jeopardize our whole tent setup and leave us wet and agonized. We regrouped quickly, reversed the tarpaulin, dried the inner tarpaulin and relaid it, stabilized the campfire and started drying ourselves in front of the campfire. It was just 8pm and pitch dark and not wanting to our moods be spoilt (because of the rain), started our fun, masti and dance around the campfire with a few boys gulping down a few drinks to keep them warm. 09:30pm - After lots of singing and dancing (Nishanth and Guru were the cheerleaders and in high spirits) around the campfire and quickly gulping down dinner amidst the fire lit, we all decided to retire for the night. It was chill with the breeze blowing harder and an open tent to spend the night. We huddled next to each other covering ourselves with blankets, jackets, caps, gloves, socks with all that we had carried, still the chillness persisted. All of us could manage sleep except Raja and Manoja as they were sleeping at the extreme ends. Raja in particular was unable to sleep because of the weather and as the campfire was burning out and somebody was required to keep it lit. Amidst strange sounds here and there, the night passed off peacefully without any hassles.

(-- Me warming in front of the campfire...)

4:00 am - With a very thin bedspread, I could not further bear the cold that woke me up and I got out to give company to Raja and Nishanth. Later Nishanth dozed off and me and Raja passed time around the campfire till daybreak.

(-- Early morning... 2 lovely scapes...)

7:30 am - All were up, fog had completely eclipsed the surroundings, weather was still chill, the sun was playing hide and seek and when we looked up, we could barely see the Tadiandamol peak that was completely engulfed in fog.

(-- tadiandamol peak covered completely early morning; view from our base camp...)

Guru, the laziest amongst all was the last to wake up and he had the best sleep without any hitches. We packed and left for the long walk back to the house from where we started off the previous day. En-route we met Thamanna who was on his way to our place to collect back the tents and other materials he had provided. We got back, freshened up, gulped down the breakfast prepared, paid thamanna the charges acquired and started on our way back home. This was the longest walk I had undertaken since a long time as the legs were crumbling under pain as it was mostly downhill walk, it was all the more painful and stressful.

(-- in the corridors of the ancient Nalknad Aramane...)

En-route we paid a visit to the ancient Nalknad Palace (Aramane) and took a shorter route to the bus stop through the fields and estates that saved us walk of more than a km.

(-- the shortcut path through the lush green fields...)

As no direct buses were available at that time to Bangalore, we had to wait for 45minutes for a bus to Virajpet from where the only option we had was a Volvo bus to Bangalore (else other buses post night) that we took and reached Bangalore by 11pm. This was one of our most awaited and anticipated treks and a sense of deja vu and accomplishment were visible all over our faces as we bid bye to each other to meet up very soon for our next adventure. All along one thing was running through my mind -- When will be turn of Kumaraparvatha? (the most difficult and strenuous trekking route; still lies unanswered)...


Care for the nature and the nature cares for you!