Photo courtesy - Amit Krishna
With a unplanned trip, called Gireesh and he reluctantly agreed as we were only 2 of us, next was the hectic task of booking tickets - all that I could manage was the last 2 seats in the 7pm KSRTC Volvo Multi Axle bus to Muvatupuzha (enroute Kottayam) from Bangalore and the return journey too in the last 2 seats of an similar service. I generally rely mostly on KSRTC (Karnataka State Road Transport Corporation) services as they are efficient, time keeping and generally good (the bus being filled to capacity is another testimony for their efficient and reliable services).
It was a smooth transit from Perumbavoor to Kothamangalam to Thattekad in the local privates buses, the only hindrance being the Malayalam language, still could manage with the people speaking broken English :) Gireesh's home stay is right inside the sanctuary gates with a couple of more houses around and is in an excellent location. As we landed, Gireesh was out with a group on the morning trail and we met his wife and later his mom who told us the guide would be available in the next hour or so.
Sanu was our guide for the morning session, and it was almost around 9am when we started off, a little late for early morning birding. The roosting Brown Hawk Owls were our first captives for the day and we saw them almost the entire day perched in the same place dozing peacefully. The lake just beside the main road is another spot for Kingfishers and the common water birds like the Darter, Coots, Moorhens and a few migrants if you are lucky. As we entered the trail inside the sanctuary, there was absolute silence with fewer calls here and there just like 'a lull before the storm' and then the frenzy started everywhere. The canopy is high and thick and the birds perch far away and its no easy sighting them forget capturing them, its a tough task and many a times I had to back out owing to neck pain. Chestnut winged Cuckoo, White bellied Treepie, Drongo Cuckoo, Brown breasted flycatcher and a whole lot of Woodpecker were all lifers for me ( in the sense seeing them for the first time ) and to top it up, the Malabar Trogon made a brief appearance and so did the treepies', drongo's, sunbirds, oriole's and a hell lot more...
In an hour or so, we had sighted so many species and most of them first time for Amit and few of them for me too and we were enjoying every bit of the fun. Back at the homestay after an eventful morning session, we met Manisha Shah and Falguna Shah from the cities of Mumbai and Ahmedabad who were here for birding too and we would be going out in the same group in the later part of the day for those elusive Frogmouths.
For the evening session, we both along with Manisha and Falguna and a 3 'phoreners' were taken by Gireesh to the nearby Bhoothatankettu and Idamalayar dam region for some more birding activity. Gireesh knows nook and corner of the region and various roosting spots of many birds like the Frogmouth or different Owls and he is so accurate in sighting them and he knows their behavior too.. incredible to say the least!
As the Frogmouths were missing from their usual spots, we went to a nearby small stream somewhere in the middle of thick jungle terrain and waited for the frenzy that was about to begin. The birds come to the stream to quench their thirst and have a bath and you can sit at a distance and silently observe all the fun that unfolds, you loose track of the time spent when doing this. White bellied Treepie's, Orange thrush, Rusty tailed flycatcher, White bellied blue flycatcher, Indian blue robin and many others paid a quick visit and entertained us, another good session and got to see some new species again.
Sun goes down too fast and it was quite dark at 6pm and finally Gireesh searched out a lone Srilankan Frogmouth perched on a dead branch about to start for the day. With absolutely no light, we had to use the torch carried by Gireesh to sight and capture the elusive beauty. Frogmouths are so very difficult to identify even if you are standing right next to them as their camouflage is so very brilliant. They choose to roost on dead branches and their body color matches the surroundings and they are very still and that makes it all the more difficult to see them.
This was the only individual we got to see and we were pretty excited about this sighting. After dinner, Gireesh drove us around for some nocturnal sighting of the Owls and Frogmouths, but all that we saw was the Jerdon's Nightjar right on the middle of the track, another first time sighting for me!
Next day, woke up to Gireesh's call at 6am (we were so damn tired of the long journey from home and all the walking and running for the entire day), we headed out to a nearby hillock passing through some rubber plantations and climbing up to get an wonderful view of the sun rising in all its glory. Elephant dung was all around and leopard scats too and that itself was quite exciting news early in the day.
Here, another kind of frenzy started with the Malabar Grey Hornbills flying in from all over the place, I presume we saw nothing less than 50 individuals flying all around, it was a mela out there with many trees fruiting and these hornbills basking in the golden sunlight. Oriole's were all around and so were the many kinds of bulbuls, sunbirds, barbets, bluebirds, minivets and many others, it was a feast for the sore eyes.
The Black Baza was missing and so were the raptors except the honey buzzard that posed for us coming in from nowhere. All of a sudden the surroundings were reverberating with the alarm calls of a frantic barking deer very close in the dense thickets in the valley region beyond the hillock we were standing and in all probability it should be an leopard considering the fact that we saw their scats on the cliff we were standing on. The calls were so near and so loud, I'm sure he would have seen us and avoided coming into direct view of us, unluckily though! Back at the homestay, after breakfast we headed out to an secluded place for some quite birding and were not lucky to sight anything great in the afternoon sun.
After lunch and some rest and a small walk through the trails, Gireesh took us on the final ride to some nearby places to possibly sight some Owls and drongo cuckoos' instead we returned sighting the Whiskered tern, pygmy woodpecker, stork billed kingfisher and few more species. Falguna and Manisha dropped us till Kothamangalam and it was an uneventful journey back home from there.
Ideally 3 days is some good time to spend here and that is precisely my plan for my next visit to Thattekad and a re-visit to Gireesh's place. A wonderful birding trip to say the least and will surely not disappoint the birder in you :)
Checklist:-
1. Ashy Drongo
2. Ashy Wood swallow
3. Asian Brown
Flycatcher
4. Asian
Drongo Cuckoo
5. Asian
Fairy bluebird
6. Asian
Paradise flycatcher
7. Black Drongo
8. Black headed
Cuckoo shrike
9. Black hooded
Oriole
10. Black naped
Oriole
11. Blue throated
flycatcher
12. Brown Hawk Owl
13. Brown capped
Pygmy Woodpecker
14. Cattle Egret
15. Chestnut tailed
Starling
16. Chestnut winged
Cuckoo
17. Common
Flame backed Woodpecker
18. Common Iora
19. Common
Kingfisher
20. Common Koel
21. Common Myna
22. Crested
Treeswift
23. Crimson fronted
Barbet
24. Darter / Snake
bird
25. Eurasian Golden
Oriole
26. Golden fronted
Leafbird
27. Great Tit
28. Greater
Flame backed Woodpecker
29. Greater
Racket tailed Drongo
30. Green Bee eater
31. Grey Wagtail
32. Grey headed
Bulbul
33. Heart spotted
Woodpecker
34. Hill Myna
35. Indian Pond
Heron
36. Jerdon's
Nightjar
37. Jungle Babbler
38. Jungle Myna
39. Lesser
Yellow naped Woodpecker
40. Little
Cormorant
41. Loten's sunbird
42. Malabar Grey
Hornbill
43. Malabar
Parakeet
44. Malabar Trogon
45. Orange headed
Thrush
46. Oriental Honey
Buzzard
47. Oriental
Magpie Robin
48. Plain
flowerpecker
49. Plum-headed
Parakeet
50. Pompadour Green
Pigeon
51. Purple rumped
sunbird
52. Purple Sunbird
53. Red Wattled
Lapwing
54. Red vented
Bulbul
55. Red whiskered
Bulbul
56. Ruby throated
BulBul
57. Rufous Treepie
58. Rufous
Woodpecker
59. Rusty tailed
Flycatcher
60. Scarlet Minivet
61. Spotted necked
Dove
62. Sri Lankan
Frogmouth
63. Stork billed
Kingfisher
64. Whiskered Tern
65. White bellied
blue flycatcher
66. White bellied
Treepie
67. White cheeked
Barbet
68. White throated
Kingfisher
69. Yellow browed
bulbulYou can see Amit's blog here!













































Day 2: After a quick breakfast, we were ready for the trek to the nearer "Saalu Gudda" and the "Haalu Kola" peaks and the waterfall. We carried along raincoats, hats and umbrella as we were sure it would rain! Four of us, Vijay and a group of six others went on the trek that was about 8kms both ways covered. No signs of sun, overcast weather and mist all around, the weather was just wonderful to start off... As we climbed higher and higher, we could see only peaks all coloured green covered with a blanked of white clouds all around till your eyesight can stretch.
After more than a hour of moderate trekking (this route was chosen because of the rains else we intended to do the 18kms Rottikallu peak trek!) we reached the peak and as the rains were holding still, the weather was picture perfect and all of our eyes gorged on the beautiful views of the valley that was very pleasing to our eyes. Soon, just as we thought, the rain gods could not hold further and for the next 10 minutes it rained cats and dogs till we were drenched to the last piece of cloth...
OMG! still we were enjoying every bit of it, the weather, the scenery, cold, chillness, wet bodies... the magic of western ghats is itself such, you need to be there to "feel" it. All of us huddled at one place till the rains stopped, after a lashing downpour, the rains subsided allowing us to descent. The return back was through an alternate route after visiting an waterfall amidst the dense ghats. The water was cold.. damn cold and not all of us dipped in! Ice cold shower in the rains! We were just not willing to, while others took a dip. Rains stayed on almost till the end and finally we reached the homestay after a wonderful memorable trek!
Hear Spotted Woodpecker, Black Lored Yellow Tit, Green Pigeons, Golden Flamebacked Woodpecker, Racket Tailed Drongo, Blue Winged Parakeet, Minivets, Treepie, White Cheeked Barbet, Striped Squirrel, White Munia, Water Snake, Spotted Dove, Babblers and lots of butterflies.