Coorg and Kabini

Monsoons, and the Western Ghats comes alive during the time when the water starved regions, barren lands, dry forests, brown hillocks come alive in various shades of green and numerous waterfalls spring up in nook and corner of the region turning the virtual entire into a carpet of greenery. When it rains, it pours in some regions diminishing the might of the Sun for a few days and the tree canopies prevent the lesser available sunlight to pass through them to hit the forest floors thus rendering it moist always. Leeches love this environment and numerous bugs, beetles, frogs, snakes thrive during the rains. In a corner of the forest, safe from the flowing water, the might King Cobra builds its nest carefully and tirelessly to ensure its eggs hatch. Frogs and toads come out of hibernation and so does many of the smaller insects virtually infesting the whole region with their calls, songs and music. With abundance of prey around, the snakes make the most of it grabbing a meal or two, whenever it can.

The smell of the land after a good rain is probably the best fragrance you could ever sense and a lush green thriving forest is probably the best sight you could see and the calls of the birds, insects and animals is probably the best music you would hear. A complete therapeutic treat to entice all of a human’s senses and re-energize the mind and soul.

We were well aware of the fact the Kodagu region comes alive during monsoons with many waterfalls springing up and the well-known ones cascading in full force and we always wanted to explore some of them at leisure and so we did traversing through Kodagu and tracing out hidden gems that come alive mostly during the monsoons. We did visit a few and we had to skip a few more owing to short time, but nevertheless it was a rejuvenating sight that lot of people miss even though they wander so close to them. Some of these need a hike and walking through unknown terrains and the area around the waterfalls are generally slippery, so you need to exercise caution before you head out deeper into the woods. If you are not sure, then take the help of a local to accompany you as it’s easy to get lost!

Frogging in the Western Ghats

Call it luck or chance, I joined a group for some frogging lessons and amphibian watching by the frog expert Dr. Gururaja Kv at Bisle Ghats, located closer to Sakleshpura town in the prime Western Ghats region.

(out in the field... looking for frogs)

This camp was a continuation of their last year camp (that very well I was unaware of), and many thanks to Avinash that I grabbed this opportunity to attend this camp. I had just begun having interests in frogs/snakes and had purchased the book of Gururaja, Frogs and Toads of the Western Ghats. Vivek and Deepika were the key planners and organizers and we camped at the Samudaya bhavana at Bisle village, completely cut off from the rest of the world.

(art in the rain)

Got to know a whole new bunch of people from diverse backgrounds and interests and I should mention about the youthful, cheerful, smiling Mr Ashokavardhana (of the Athree book centre, Mangalore fame) who was always infusing us with his energetic enthusiasm (that many of us lacked at times) and infectious smile and whistles. You should have a look at his blog in Kannada here.

(find the frog...!)

We had field sessions and indoor sessions to study the distribution of frogs in and around the place and this is planned to be done every year so that there is a base of data collected over few years that helps us study the amphibians and their distribution better.

(field discussions)

What we did? Ganged up on Saturday morning and after a filling breakfast did a small hike inside AshokaVana (pvt land purchased by Ashoka sir and others and completely let grow wild) till Dr Guru and team arrived, then a brief introductory session by the master followed by a homely filling meal and then two field sessions in search of amphibians around. Next day was more relaxing with an early filling breakfast followed by a field session collecting data and then an indoor final session and lunch followed by dispersal.

(art in the rain 2)

Why was Bisle chosen as a place of study? May be because of the copious amounts of rains it receives, less exploitation of the habitat so far and an environment conducive for the amphibians to exist. We will have a trend and some amazing facts coming out in a few years time from now basis the data collected every year.

Personally for me, I got to learn quite a lot of things about amphibians, their life cycles, differences and also was able to connect with a very diverse and vivid group of people, such groups infuse you with the energy at levels that you can only think of. Overall, was a great learning experience and I hope to be back this monsoon again to collect and contribute to the data.

(an indoor session by Dr Gururaja, Priti and Sudhir are seen standing)

Dr Gururaja was accompanied by his wife Priti and good friend Sudhir of Gubbi Labs who themselves are experts in their own fields, related to each other.

(art in the rain 3)

Many things I picked up over the two days:
> Frogs do not hibernate, they are present in their regular places but are less active.
> There are no poisonous frogs in India.
> Frogs and Toads are called amphibians because they have a 2-staged life, tadpole and adult stage and not because they live in water.
> Most of the frogs are territorial, they fight for territories and they kick and choke the opponents.
> No major differences between frogs/toads excepts for the feature that toads have got poison glands on their back (from which they discharge poison) and have rounded snouts.
> Sexes do differ. Males have got vocal sacs and have glands on inner legs called fermonal glands and the males have got nuptial pads on the thumb that differs them from the female who do not exhibit these features.
> Success rate is considered higher in less egg laying frogs, nearly 100%.

(how to hold a frog!)

How to handle Frogs?
They are very sensitive creatures and need to be handled with utmost care else you could suffocate them or break their limbs. Some tips on handling them better...
> clasp them with soft hands and not by force
> hold it gently by its forelegs or hind legs and by abdomen in the case of bigger sized ones.
> allow it to relax before you start inspecting them

Some interesting facts:
> 6000+ species of frogs in the world
> around 340 frogs/toads found in India
> around 180 frogs/toads found in Western Ghats alone
> 36 cecilians found in India (endemic to India)
> 1 salamander species found in India
> 94 species of frogs/toads found in W.Ghats are data deficient meaning we do not have proper scientific information about them as yet!

(L-R: Sudhira, Vivek, Ashokavardhana, Sandeep, Suman, Aparna, Shishir, Ashrita (partially seen), Rohit, Santosh, Vinayaka, Ananth, Avinash, Karthik, Anup, Navya, Guru, Gururaja, Priti Gururaja, Chinmayi, Deepika, Sowmini)

How to Reach: Bangalore - Kunigal - Channarayapatna - Holenarsipura - Shanivarasanthe - Bisle State Forest OR
Bangalore - Hassan - Sakleshpur - Shanivarasanthe - Bisle State Forest

Note: No accommodation facilities available, small shops are present that serve tea/coffee and light food. Have no expectations.

And, finally here is the link to the android app of Frog Find, the e-version of the frog book of Dr Gururaja.

Honey Valley Estate - Monsoon weekend

A monsoon weekend in search of frogs...

Reptiles and Amphibians are found in plenty during the rains and June-September is a good time going in search of them. Coorg is a diverse, diversity rich location and Honey valley estate is one such place full of life forms, both in the day and night! So, it was no surprise that we chose to visit the place again specifically for frogs and snakes in the rains. Jagdeesh drove me, KKT and Sandesh in his Indigo to Kabbinakadu junction and back.

Coorg / Kodagu come alive during rains, you can literally breathe the greenery around and the vistas of greens everywhere are a sight to behold. Rains during monsoon are continuous and sometimes pretty heavy, you need to be prepared to get wet and move around in the rains else you would be pretty much stuck indoors without anything to do. Leeches are again very active during this time and you need to take care as to minimize the number of bites you get ;)

Driving overnight, we reached Café Coorg near Hunsur at dawn and had a good rest before moving on as the road conditions deteriorate thereafter. We avoided taking the Gonikoppal road for two reasons, bad roads and elephant menace. Tackling elephants in the middle of the night in the rains traversing on bad to worse roads is not at all a good idea! So we chose the other route via Siddapura, Ammathi that was pretty much in the same condition, a restless rattling rain drive.

Our agenda at the estate for the day and a half we stayed was very simple, to be out in the field with your camera, you never know what you would find where and when! We checked in, had some nice tea/coffee and off we went on a trail looking for everything we could see, flowers, insects, moths, caterpillars, bees, birds, mushrooms, butterflies, shrubs, vines, trees, each and every thing that was on offer around us. If you have keen and sharp eyes, there are so many interesting things to see and observe that we generally overlook around us. 

The rains had held up for a small duration with the sun poking out teasing us and making us sweat on the trail. The estate has many trails mapped in a small book that you can choose to go on and come back safe without any guides. Each of the trails are interesting and with full of life. The sun soaking up the fresh green moss on the trunks of the tree made for some amazing vista’s that I can’t describe further. Those little droplets of water look like diamonds sparkling with the sun’s rays falling on them and the entire moss covered branch glows in the sunlight.

Rains couldn’t be far behind and while tracking our way to a waterfall nearby, we were drenched completely in the heavy downpour that lasted all of just 10 minutes! Luckily, we were pretty prepared with all rain covers, leech socks and enough wear to not get wet and not let our cameras get wet too! After a long trail and hot lunch back at the estate, a quick nap ensured all the energy was back for the night trail. In the meanwhile, while I was lazing in the courtyard enjoying the rains, a pretty Emerald dove made its appearance and vanished as quickly as it came, I could locate it no further anywhere else.

Soon after the sun sets and darkness envelops, the nocturnals make their presence felt with croaking, shrieking and hissing sounds all over the place. Crickets, Cicadas and Frogs are very vocal and their calls can be heard almost at every place. Night trail in search of frogs is very tricky if you are not aware of their behavior. In general, frogs are small in size and very skittish, the move around their territory calling aloud and warning intruders or attracting females. As soon as they realize, they are spotted they go silent and it’s a pretty long task to figure out where they are perches, either on a leaf, or a branch, or under the leaf, or on the ground…

Finally, after extensive searching and tracking, we got to see a lone Yellow Bush Frog (Raorchestes luteolus) located on a bush under a leaf croaking away to glory. The specimen’s croaking sound was so loud that you could hear it reverberate in your ears but when you see him, it’s a tiny little frog! This was the only specimen we found and we could not trace out any snakes or other frogs on our trails.

After a long productive day, we were late to bed but early to wake up the next day. Again, we went on a trail to a stream area nearby and it was pretty good the see just the stream flow, the cold water trickling down the boulders and stones making whirlpools and small rivulets, I had a good time capturing them with long exposures getting that silky effect of the flowing water stream. We got to see the same variety of frog again but in a different location and for the first time I held the tiny little fellow on my hand and it was a pretty good experience ogling at the fine details on the frog in your hand.

We left the estate at noon after bidding a customary bye to uncle Suresh Chengappa and his son and on the way we came across a dead Coral snake, pretty rare and venomous, heartbreaking indeed! At Virajpet, we met a kind hearted doctor, a brilliant photographer and a down-to-earth person, Dr Bishen Monappa (his works are amazing) at his residence. Further, on the return we took a different route to pass via Nagarahole national park. 

The entry closes by 6pm and we just made it in to pass through. The drive has to be slow and being dusk, a lot of wildlife movement happens and you need to be careful not to scare them or bump into any. The road was littered with numerous frogs and the atmosphere full of croaks and we also saw a couple of Russell’s viper on the road. Luckily, as we were ahead, we could stop and allow them to cross over being subject to some irate honking from the vehicles behind us.

Place: Honey Valley Estate

Contact: Mr Suresh Chengappa

http://honeyvalleyindia.in/

Phone: 08272-238339/200325

Route: Bangalore-Srirangapatna-Hunsur-Periyapatna-Siddapura-Ammathi-Virajpete-Kabbinakad junction (a left here on the cement road will take you to the estate about 5kms away)

Return: Kabbinakad junction-Virajpete-Srimangala-Kutta-Karmadu-Hunsur-Bangalore

Monsoons in W Ghats II @ Ganeshgudi

Well, we knew it would be raining and that's the reason we chose to do a quick dash to Ganeshgudi JLR camp over the weekend in July. The other reason was that it was a long 5 months since we had been there and we had to go there again, yes again, and we would love to go there again and again :)

Every time we go to Ganeshgudi that is almost 500kms away, we try different routes and options, enjoying each and every transportation we choose. Booked our tickets on the Rani Chennamma express that goes up to Londa Jn from where Ganeshgudi is around 20 odd kms by bus. Cramped with work, I had to work in the train with the others snoring and I loved the fact that Reliance data connectivity was present all through the way albeit at a lower speed, my journey with Reliance continues into its 7th year now :)


Rains kept company all along and with sparse sleep, I was up very early in the train roaming between the coaches waiting for the sun to rise. Well, cloudy weather prevailed and it was a refreshing view out from the train with greens all along the route with monsoon in full splendor and life sprouting in all forms all along. Paddy fields, barren lands, villages, towns, everywhere and everything was green to the core and the fragrance of the wet soil that brings in a sense of 'Ah! Pleasant' was omnipresent all through the train journey.

How many of love to spend time near the train compartment doors pushing your head out and allowing the breeze to blow against your face early in day soaking in the fresh air and chill weather? Ah! We love to do it and we generally spend most of our travel time near the door rather than in the ac compartment!


The rain game started as soon as we landed at Londa as it was raining intermittently, sometimes heavy, sometimes light, a game we loved being part of! Breakfast was awaiting us as also Parshuram and staff at the JLR camp. I entered the camp with a preset mind that my 100-400 zoom lens would be sparsely used and I lived up to it.

The 2 days we spent at the camp was all about tea, breakfast, bread toast, lunch, pakodas, salads, soup, dinner and desserts; chatting, sleeping, whaling away time while it kept raining intermittently. Frogs, bugs, beetles, insects, butterflies and few birds when the rains gave us a break.

Birdlife was very sparse as we had expected and my wish of seeing the singing maestro was finally fulfilled - the elusive Malabar Whistling Thrush. Its not a fair looking bird and many mistake it for the crow. It is also black with metallic blue wings and you should listen to its song to believe it. Every time my phone rings, the Malabar Whistling thrush comes alive :)

Bird checklist:
Malabar Whistling Thrush
Yellow browed Bulbul
White bellied Blue flycatcher
Puff throated Babbler
Emerald Dove
Orange headed Thrush
Blue capped Rock thrush
Shikra
Rufous bellied Woodpecker
Racquet tailed Drongo
Orange Minivets
Golden backed Woodpecker
Indian Robin
Brown cheeked Fulvetta
Malabar Grey Hornbill
Jungle Mynah

Indian Bull Frog
Bicolored Frog
Red Cotton Bug
Grasshoppers
Locust
White four ring Butterfly
and many unidentified ones!

While coming back we took a jeep ride till Dandeli where there was no signs of rain at all and we took the government bus till Dharwad where we had to pick up the mandatory 'Baburao Singhs Thakur Peda' :) The Volvo service to Bangalore starts from the new bus stand at Dharwad. To the dismay of us the bus stand is out of the city limits and looks very  isolated place and with no hotels around, sad but true and we had to face this unkind situation! Well, another learning never to skip food when it's available hoping you will find something :)

Simha farms - Monsoons, Macros, Western Ghats

So far, it has been a quite year for us with fewer adventures and more work and this seems to be continuing into the 2nd half of the year too... After the NTP, I should confess with pride I no longer venture into the field looking out for either birds or mammals only, its every life form that now enthuses me and everything looks interesting :)

With new work and new responsibilities, my Saturdays are a little jeopardized with a couple of hours work to be done and that reflects wherever I travel. Instantly we decided on visiting my friend Adithya's Simha farms for the weekend that is located at Madodi village at the foothills of Kodachadri very close to Hosanagara and Kollur. We needed a break and we were well aware, it would be raining and we were happy about it! (What else do lazy bums need...) Rains in the western ghats is different - it rains, it rains and it only rains. Just when you think the rains have stopped, it starts again, its not a heavy downpour but a slow steady drizzle for hours together and this is the story every day for couple of months when the monsoon is at its peak. Seeing the sun is uncommon and he may not be visible for a couple of days together and all that you get to see is dark clouds hovering above threatening to open up anytime... and with it comes lots of mosquitoes and mosquito bites!

The whole place turns green and you get to see a lot of shades of green all around, the amphibians, reptiles, bugs, beetles, insects are all out and its a macro world out there for the people interested. The little drops of water on the flowers, on the rich green leaves, the moths and caterpillars, centipedes and millipedes, bugs and beetles, frogs and toads, lizards and snakes, you just cant stop smiling. Shooting macros is not an easy job, you need to get wet, dirty and slushy and suffer zillions of insect bites to get close to the subject. Of the lot, frogs are the friendliest who do pose for you diligently, the bugs and beetles are the ones that make you run around, but are good posers once they are tired and realize you are still behind them! I'm still in the infancy of macro photography and now I have started venturing into manual focusing and different exposure combinations with my Tamron multipurpose lens. 

(not sure whether it is the Common Green Forest Lizard?)

With the KSRTC Rajahamsa service running full, we had to choose the Durgamba travels to Madodi and we were bed bugged the whole night :( As we landed early in the day, the rains had just stopped and the fantastic weather was so rejuvenating for our tired limbs. Probably for the first time ever, my Canon camera was in the bag for more than a couple of hours since I landed there. My eyes were scanning all around for something interesting and a couple of hours passed by waiting for the rains to recede and in finishing my work. Stuffing ourselves with breakfast, lunch and snacks and with continuous rains and our continuous bouts of sleep, it was evening time before we even realized. Briefly for about an hour or so, the sun was out  and all of a sudden the place was brimming with bird activity in a hurried manner. In a span of less time I sighted the Racquet tailed drongo, Malabar Grey hornbill, Velvet fronted Nuthatch, Small Minivets, Asian fairy Bluebird, Verdited flycatcher, Purple rumped Sunbird, Golden Oriole, Vernal hanging Parrot, Golden flameback Woodpecker and many more that I could only hear but not see that finally brought out my Canon zoom lens into action. The evenings were colder and the day ended with a bachelors party for Raja and with rains, rains and more rains! (Well Nag aka Nagaraj Gaitonde had a very long night and a night to remember for sure :)).

Day 2 started of with less rains and sun was more prominent than the day before and it sure was an interesting day for all of us. Snails, Centipedes, Caterpillars were all around the place and there were varied life forms all around. When it rains the Cicadas and the Crickets are the most noisiest around but hardly visible, got a single view shot of a Cicada luckily. The massive bull sized Indian Bull Frog was very co-operative and didn't move an inch letting us close by and a couple of other frogs too. The Cicada, mating Grasshoppers, the tiny yet beautiful Blue banded bee kept me occupied till the time we departed from the place. The session of badminton that we played made us realize where it hurts the most if you are playing after a long gap. The most interesting happening was the Cicada kill by the Praying Mantis and the after events.

(@ about 2:30PM)

After lunch, as were were gearing up for a team photo shoot, we were attracted by the shrills of a cicada close by but a little unusual and off sound. Closely inspecting the surroundings, finally we found the cicada firmly in the grasp of the spiked forelegs of the mantis on the bark of the nearby tree. The shrill from the cicada continued as the grasp of the mantis became stronger.

(@ about 2:45PM)

What amazed us all was the manner the mantis was holding on to its prey firmly standing upside down on the bark of a tree and the prey being heavier than itself. As the cicada was still moaning, the mantis was on its job chewing of its prey from the top and it was a sore sight for us observing all the action. The life in cicada was not out completely as it still tried to wriggle away even as the mantis kept on munching on its prey.

We could not get too close as the position of the mantis on the bark was not conducive but all of us sat observing the game of life and death through the binox and our naked eyes and somewhere in our hearts we felt sorrow for the cicada. Half an hour later, the boys went for a nap and I went around chasing the bees and the grasshoppers around.

(@ about 3:40 PM)

The action went on for more than an hour with the mantis enjoying the feast and the cicada now only half visible. I left the mantis to feed further on its pray without causing further disturbance to chase the insects and the bees. I could not find the mantis after an hour or so past 5PM nor could find the shell of the dead cicada. Amazing nature and amazed to see such instances live!

We bid goodbye to Adithya and proceeded towards Shimoga town from where our reservations on the KSRTC Mercedes Benz was confirmed to Bangalore. Somewhat, we were not happy with the Merc ride and felt the Volvo's are much better in comfort.


Personally for me, a good beginning into the macro world and I know for sure this will linger on for some time to come :)


You can contact Adithya Biloor @ www.simhafarms.com
and @
9449652173 / 9379535738 / 08185253738