May 1, 2022

Permaculture Design Course (PDC) from Aranya - A new beginning!


Getting into farming has always been a spectacular wish for me and with it fulfill one’s requirements enough to survive. However, I wasn’t keen on the conventional methods and always wanted to do it the traditional or the symbiotic way. As a precursor, having a garden on the terrace was one of the things I did and churning out own compost from the kitchen was another attempt towards that. But easier than said, challenges overcome needs and with a busy work-life schedule, the garden always took the backseat in the daily life.

"Organic" is an over utilized and abused word in equal measures and it always is inorganically organic, best said. Browsing through ways of alternate methods natural farming, zero budget farming, permaculture were the terms that came up randomly and consistently and all seemed fair and lovely in their own ways and permaculture ways was preferred being heard and seen more regularly in the social media channels and friends.

The more I read, the more I got interested and Permaculture was the way I wanted to pursue with whenever I would own a piece of land. To hone the skills further, I and Raja enrolled to the Permaculture Design Course (PDC) conducted by Narsanna Koppula (pioneer of permaculture in India) Padma Koppula and Sneha Koppula at their farm, Aranya located in Bidakanna village, Zaheerabad, Telangana State, India and for a duration of two weeks.

What followed next was more than what we anticipated. To summarize, we realized that Permaculture is not only about farming practices but more than that, simply put – it’s a way of life and the ethics of Permaculture pretty much describes it beautifully.

Narsanna Sir and Aranya: Sir, as I regard him fondly has been an activist all through his life working for the upliftment of rural communities and an interaction with Bill Mollison (co-originator of Permaculture term) led him to participate in the first PDC in India and has been a pioneer of Permaculture practice in India ever since. Sir and Padma ma’am founded the Aranya Agricultural Alternatives, an NGO in 1999 and ever since they have been helping farmers, rural communities, government organizations manage water resources and grow their own food making them self-sustainable.

Permaculture (or Permanent Agriculture/culture) is based on the below ethics:
· Earth Care – provision for all life systems

· People Care – provision for all people to access resources necessary for existence

· Fair Share – setting limits to consumption by governing our own needs

Along with these ethics, there are 12 design principles that one can refer that is based on replicating or imitating natural patterns found in ecosystems. The focus of permaculture is not on individual elements, rather on the relationships among them.

My Experience: The two-week course was intense, joyful, labor intense, fulfilling, tiring (blame the April heat), lazy (blame the good food) and energetic in equal measures and the bunch of 25 of us were equally engaging ourselves to ingest as much as we could from the ever energetic and ever enthusiastic Narsanna Sir. His levels of energy and enthusiasm pretty much would outdo a lot of us, and you are sure to be left very far behind if you ever try to walk with him somewhere, such is his agility and speed.


More than being fed content over presentations, the course was more about questions, self-exploration, and making us think and act and the breakout group activities always had an intent behind them to judge the camaraderie of the group members.


"Do not abuse resources, use them judiciously"

I said this in my feedback, and I repeat here that the 25 of us started off as disjointed, bunch of random seedlings, haphazard in our own ways and pretty much the urban dash tribe (urban dash, used by Sir is often referred to folks from the city who are educated but are actually uneducated and find it hard to relate anything other than their mechanized lives) and by the end of 14 days, we all transformed into a design pattern of a tree (connected, sharing, caring and socially interactive) with Sir being the seed and providing us the raw materials to grow and disperse our knowledge to more people.

“Be in co-operative mode, not competitive mode!”

First couple of days were more theoretical focusing on the basics of permaculture including the ethics, principles, site and sector analysis, needs and yields, designs and patterns, and conveying the importance of water harvesting/management, social permaculture and the critical importance of soil.





In general, when we talk about nature, it’s mostly about forests, water bodies, air quality, soil erosion and so on and I’ve hardly noticed anyone talk about the importance of soil. All of us are aware that soil is needed but that’s it, there’s no stress on why soil should be conserved, how does soil regenerate, what’s our role in it and honestly how are we trampling the soil in the name of technological advances in the field of agriculture.


Subsequent days paralleled between more of practical sessions like observation walks, community farms, social interactions with pioneers from the villages (mostly women folk) who have been working with Sir since decades, mock design sessions and exploring Aranya observing the micro-climates, water harvesting techniques, food forests, cropping patterns, composting methods, creating own bio-enzymes, plant identification, soil composition, creating own biochar etc. and few but critical theoretical inputs like the cropping patterns, role of soil, seed preservation techniques, medicinal plants, plant grafting techniques, urban permaculture, weeds and more.



"Weed for one can be food for another"

In between all of this, we were randomly sorted into groups of 5-6 people who were given tasks (like designing the nursery area, repurposing open area near the house, grey water management within Aranya, trench digging) that we would spend about an hour every day in the morning. The days mostly began with a starting circle and ended with a close-in circle where I used to be the loudest and speak the longest (tch tch! 'bear with me' or 'bored with me' 😊)


“This has been a Unique batch, very different from the rest – Narsanna sir!” (Well, I was there! the 67th batch of his)

“We were such a great batch, we got a day off in between!”


The final couple of days were reserved for the final design planning where a custodian would provide a piece of land with requirements and as designers the group would debate, interact, question and chart out detailed design maps and present it to the overall group. That was intense, labor intensive, time consuming but soon I realized that there was so much I had learnt over the two weeks and there was so much more to learn in the future

We were very well fed through the day with various dishes, drinks, and fruits to top it off and most of them sourced from the community network or grown in Aranya that indeed was relative to the concept of our own food forest. The whole campus was teeming with life of all forms and being interested in nature, I had a great time observing birds, butterflies, bugs, insects, patterns and a lot more, thanks to Sneha for the binoculars that was a saving grace for me.


Aranya, to describe is a world in itself; self-sufficient to a large extent – cowshed, chicken coop, natural buildings, seed bank, tents and dormitory for the visitors, utilizing solar energy where feasible, fruit orchards, vegetable gardens, maximizing water usage (so as to not let anything flow as waste), local community resources (who work in the kitchen and the farm) who are residents along with the Koppula family; their daughter Sneha who has studied and lived in the states and now back to the roots; their dogs – Ginger (the undisputed and unpredictable king and a fierce protector), Papoos, Jam and Chotu; the ever energetic and smiling volunteers (currently they are Aadi, Jayoti and Praneeth) who are much more than volunteers here; the numerous beehives or the termite mounds; women folk from the community who consider Aranya their home (Samamma and Thulajamma and others); the resident monitor lizard or the tickell’s blue flycatcher; the numerous organisms and micro-organisms that thrive here (testimony to the fact that Aranya has a pretty dense green cover even during the hot April and the temperatures were slightly lower than the outer areas that had no cover and bore the brunt of the summer sun) and there is always something happening at any time of the year.

Compare this to the thousands of acres of reserve forest surrounding Aranya where native tree species are mostly replaced by Eucalyptus and Acacia plantations in a dry land region where water is a prime commodity and adding insult to it are the badly planned trenches all along for the rainwater (they looked more like to help the water run off with all the soil rather than hold them back), human made fires to help propagate the tendu shoots better (the famous beedi leaves!).

“Where is the Thinking!”

“Forests are for regeneration, not revenue generation!”

Terminologies that you get familiar in Permaculture:
Guilds, Circles, Raised Beds, Edges and Nodes, Trenches, Crescents, Swales, A frame, mulching, nitrogen fixers, contours, windbreaks, zones, layering, gully plugs, percolation tank, brushwood etc...

Key things what I learnt and what others reading this should try to learn:
Importance of water harvesting/management – try to ensure not a drop of water leaves your land (obviously not so if you are located in an excessive water available region)

“Water harvesting is not only about water, its about soil as well”

“Water never travels alone, it carries SOIL along with it”

Soil conservation – how not to till and kill your soil and ways of enriching them to help them heal

“SOIL – Shelter of Invisible Life”

Mulch, mulch and mulch – how critical is it in transforming a barren land into a living paradise

Designs and Patterns – Edges, Nodes, learn from your surroundings to optimize energy and resources

“Edge is where Life Happens”

Wind, Fire, Wildlife threats – Years of hard work can be burnt into ashes within minutes if these factors are not accounted for. Permaculture design has zones limited to use of wild exclusively

Pests and Weeds – how much of a tolerance is needed and how quick!

"A Pest is a Guest"

“Weed is a deed, indeed!”

Compost – Why and how? Cattle dungs, bird droppings, even human waste are great sources if utilized well. This is a critical requirement for any piece of land to enrich, sustain and thrive well

Trees – Windbreaks, Fire-resistant, drought-resistant, hardy, fodder, timber, fruit orchards, pest repellants, medicinal, nitrogen fixers – Don’t pluck anything out unless you are sure it’s harmful

Disaster Management – How prepared are we? Social interaction is a key factor and collaboration with the community helps save and mitigate the damage to lives and the natural resources

“Design for Disaster”

Social Permaculture – in what ways and how? Not everyone can be like Narsanna sir and Padma ma’am but what is the possibility and extent we could do within our individual capacity and it’s not only in practice but also needs to be part of our thinking

“Life has a higher value than money”

Finally, “Don’t forget about the Ethics”

Conclusion:
All in all, well spent two weeks of my life; lots of things to introspect and retrospect; plenty of confidence to progress into creating a food forest (farming) the way I would want it; many inspiring people like the power couple, Sneha, Aadi, Sonali, Nikhil, Raj; and now a member of the fast-growing permaculture tribe in India

If you can spare two weeks, head over to https://permacultureindia.org/up-coming-courses/ and register for the next batch and do remember to cite my reference, my legacy will stay! lol!

Follow them on Facebook, Instagram or on the Web.


Some random observations/impressions of the folks:
1) Trisha: Kutty paapa
2) Aishwarya: aspirational
3) Sindhu: Teacher amma
4-5) Praneetha/Priyanka: Two sides of the same coin
6) Shweta: Happy
7) Sonali: Expert
8) Prajna: Queen Bee
9) Shobita: Silent laughter
10) Alka: Nursing lives
11) Vihitha: Question bank
12) Surabhi: Silent architect
13) Sridevi: Laughing machine
14) Revati: Vegan
15) Shiva: Hybrid
16) Nikhil: vlogger
17) RajMahendra: Been there, done that!
18) Aravinda: It’s hot!
19) Shatam: Cool cucumber
20) Vikram: Coach
21) Nagaraj: Silence is golden
22) Spandan: Future innovator
23) Gangaraju: Son of the soil
24) Sk Chouhan: I have the answer, do you have a question
25) Santosh (self): Babbler
26) Sneha: Family love
27) Praneeth: Who am I!
28) Aadi: Water
29) Jayoti: Living life
30) Padma ma’am: Ever smiling
31) Narsanna sir: tata birla ram ram!

Nov 9, 2020

Coorg and Kabini

Monsoons, and the Western Ghats comes alive during the time when the water starved regions, barren lands, dry forests, brown hillocks come alive in various shades of green and numerous waterfalls spring up in nook and corner of the region turning the virtual entire into a carpet of greenery. When it rains, it pours in some regions diminishing the might of the Sun for a few days and the tree canopies prevent the lesser available sunlight to pass through them to hit the forest floors thus rendering it moist always. Leeches love this environment and numerous bugs, beetles, frogs, snakes thrive during the rains. In a corner of the forest, safe from the flowing water, the might King Cobra builds its nest carefully and tirelessly to ensure its eggs hatch. Frogs and toads come out of hibernation and so does many of the smaller insects virtually infesting the whole region with their calls, songs and music. With abundance of prey around, the snakes make the most of it grabbing a meal or two, whenever it can.

The smell of the land after a good rain is probably the best fragrance you could ever sense and a lush green thriving forest is probably the best sight you could see and the calls of the birds, insects and animals is probably the best music you would hear. A complete therapeutic treat to entice all of a human’s senses and re-energize the mind and soul.


We were well aware of the fact the Kodagu region comes alive during monsoons with many waterfalls springing up and the well-known ones cascading in full force and we always wanted to explore some of them at leisure and so we did traversing through Kodagu and tracing out hidden gems that come alive mostly during the monsoons. We did visit a few and we had to skip a few more owing to short time, but nevertheless it was a rejuvenating sight that lot of people miss even though they wander so close to them. Some of these need a hike and walking through unknown terrains and the area around the waterfalls are generally slippery, so you need to exercise caution before you head out deeper into the woods. If you are not sure, then take the help of a local to accompany you as it’s easy to get lost!

Nov 7, 2020

Rajasthan birding - Keoladeo Ghana National Park (Bharatpur)

Rajasthan trip report here...


With spare days now on hand and Raja not available in Jaipur, we dashed off to Keoladeo Ghana National Park or more commonly called the Bharatpur bird sanctuary to spend our remaining days of the trip that turned out to be an excellent decision with us being there at the right time. Bharatpur, is as small area but is an excellent avifauna sanctuary that hosts thousands of birds, especially during the winter season and people flock here for many reasons – photography, bird watching, cycling around the whole park or just walking and spending quality time listening to the birds and nothing else.


Dec 31, 2018

Rajasthan Birding - Jorbeed, Chhapar


Rajasthan trip report here...


Early next day, we were off to one of the most anticipated places on our list – a dumping yard! Yes. Jorbeed is a carcass dumping yard where carcass is treated and dumped and where you get to see a huge diversity of birdlife. This small patch of land is probably where you will see the highes congregation of vultures of many kinds, all in one place. Diclonofenac literally had wiped out the vulutre population from India, but awareness and banning of the drug has seen the population of vulutres recover slowly, but the threat remains large as few species of vultures are still classified as critically endangered.




Oct 29, 2018

Rajasthan birding - RTR & DNP


Rajasthan – this name brings to anyone’s mind thoughts about desert, camels, oasis, sand dunes and people in colorful attire; while there’s much more to Rajasthan than just these. Sample these – huge forts, palaces, a hill station, wildlife parks, bird sanctuaries and mouth-watering taste of food. Desert National Park (DNP), Ranthambore Tiger Reserve (RTR), Sariska Tiger Reserve, Keoladeo Ghana National Park or the Bharatpur bird sanctuary, Tal Chappar (TC) wildlife sanctuary are some of the prominent wildlife habitats that host the critically endangered but magnificent Great Indian Bustard (GIB) to a good population of Tigers, Blackbucks, Caracals, Bustards, Cranes and a whole lot of more that can only be seen by exploring the vast state.


Ever since my friend Raja Bandi moved to Rajasthan, there was an open invite for me to visit and me along with Kannan and Harish sir ensured the invite was used judiciously by touring Rajasthan and exploring the wildlife for a good two weeks. Also, should I say, I shopped till I dropped ensuring my baggage over ran its limitation on our return journey 😊. We did this circuit ex-Jaipur by hiring a local cab, a Qualis with a jugaad AC set-up to beat the heat of the desert land.

Jaipur - Ranthambore - Jaipur - Jaisalmer - Desert National Park (Khuri/Sudasari) - Kuldhara - Phalodi(Khichan) - Bikaner - Tal Chaapar - Sujangarh - Jaipur - Bharatpur - Jaipur for a good two weeks enduring the hot days and the chilly nights, particularly harsh were the three nights we stayed at the Desert National Park.

Oct 15, 2017

Mookanamane falls & Hoysala temples

A quick visit to Gandikota was on the cards but as always, with only few people confirming and the long distance overwhelming us, we rather chose to explore few Hoysala temples around Hassan as well as visit the Mookanamane Abbi falls near Sakaleshpura.

Impromptu decisions and next morning me, Prashanth (Payaniga) and Avinash were off towards Sakaleshpura in search of the Mookanamane falls. Prashanth had a vague idea of the location of the falls having visited it few years ago. Sakaleshpura town was very quiet considering that the Shiradi ghat roads were closed for repair and also that the tourist flow is low during the rainy season. We were happy with the almost non-existent crowd and had a heavy breakfast at Surabhi restaurant, right next to Hotel Ashritha where we planned to stay for the night. With packed lunch we proceeded towards the falls but it turned out to be trickier than expected as we lost sight of the route and had to scout for people at many crossroads on where to go. Google maps assisted to an extent but considering the patchy network, it was not very reliable.


The landscape changes as soon as you cross over Hassan and being monsoon time, it was all shades of green everywhere all along the route and the smell of the earth after the rains is infectious. Cool breeze, drizzling rain and the shades of green along the countryside kept us company throughout the day infecting us with some wonderful vista views, pure air and dollops of energy to keep us going.


Sometimes, asking the locals for directions can actually detour you as we experienced this and after losing a couple of hours of going around, we finally reached closer to the falls. Rains were reluctant to leave and stayed with us and those umbrellas we carried came to our rescue as we embarked on the path to the falls being half a kilometer away. We could hear the roar of the falls getting louder as we moved closer and finally we reached the upstream area navigating ourselves on the slippery track all along. The water flow was heavy, strong currents, muddy water (due to soil erosion) and it did look scary at first sight but then, monsoon is the only time when you get to see a waterfall in full glory.


We had to navigate through the bushes, rocks holding on to them dearly and watching every step or lunge we took to finally reach the downstream or rather bang in front of the mighty falls. The umbrellas we carried became defunct as we were all drenched due to the rain and the splashing water from the falls. I was mighty impressed by the size of the falls being very wide and the water gushing down from a decent height to create the roars we were hearing. We were thrilled to be there enjoying the nature’s beauty in its rawest form but were also skeptical in staying long in front of the falls as a heavy gush of water would be trouble for us standing exposed in front. At times we had to shout to communicate to each other in front of deafening sound of the falls.


After the customary photo shoot and with growling stomachs, we cautiously made our way back to the parked car where the packed food was devoured in a flash. Manjarabad fort remains unseen as the delays during the day ensured we would be late and the gates locked. Back to Ashritha hotel, we spent the evening chatting through the night and making plans for the next day.




(Kondajje temple and below Chennakeshava temple, Saalagaame)



Early next day, we left early as we had quite a few places to cover and the intention to see the historical Hoysala temples that are spread around the Hassan region. We did manage to see the Kondajje temple near Belur followed by Chennakeshava temple located in Saalagame near Belur and then Boocheshwara temple located in Koravangala and finally the Aanekere Chennakeshava temple near Channarayapatna (CR Patna) before heading back to Bengaluru. Of all the lot, the Kondajje temple presents a sorry state of affairs to such an extent that you cannot make out that it’s a temple of the Hoysala era.


(Boocheshwara temple, Koravangala & below Aanekere Chennakeshava temple)


Mar 6, 2017

Aero India 2017 - Aero Show

A few years back or a few editions back, when I first visited the Aero show held in Bengaluru, I was enthralled no end and those mean machines launching up and their acrobatic displays left me pleasantly impressed. The impact of a MIG or the Sukhoi or the F16 whizzing above you with deafening sound would leave many a lot covering their ears or just allow you to gasp at them in awe.

This event that unfolds in Bengaluru at the Air Force Station, Yelahanka once in two years draws huge crowds and the traffic management is a chaos every time with no solution in sight however best the authorities plan in advance and execute. This is one kind of an event where you can get up and close with those wonder machines that you always see up above in the horizon vanishing even before you have a proper look at it. Also to say, you get a peek sneak into the capabilities of various countries and the aerospace technologies that is on offer inviting potential customers to their stands.

I'm yet to get a chance to visit the stalls but the crowds, traffic and chaos has kept me away and I rather chose to sneak in early to watch the displays and sneak out before the traffic goes haywire.

Few tips (for future planners) from me before I share some pictures from there...
If you intend to visit the stalls as well as watch the airshow:-
i. Leave early and reach the venue early. This year you could collect your tickets beforehand that I realized made it more easier avoiding the queues at the counter to collect tickets
ii. Carry a hat, sunshades, plenty of water, camera with sufficient batteries/cards and a sunscreen lotion if you prefer to use them to avoid getting sunburnt and water to keep you hydrated during the hot day. If with family, carry a picnic mat, huge umbrella to help yourself sit under its shade while enjoying the air display
iii. Adequate food counters were set up this dishing out variety of food. Be responsible and dispose the trash in the designated places. Unwanted thrash can attract birds that can affect the air show
iv. the air show display area where the general visiting crowd stands is an open area and people tend to dispose leftover wrappers, plastic bottles, etc etc everywhere that is not a good sign. This inspite of having plenty of bins and designated places to dump the trash. We never learn, do we!
v. Leave the venue just before the event ends to escape the traffic and the subsequent pile up of vehicles
vi. Look up the timings for the bus services that would be put up for this event and use them if you can. I failed to figure out their timings and ended up commuting in my car
vi. All people can watch the air show from kids to elders. Just have some preparation and enjoy the event

I personally, reached early and left just a bit early and escaped getting caught in the traffic snarls.

Next time around if it happens in Bengaluru, I plant to visit the stalls and also watch the air displays. Hoping!


The Yakolevs Aerobatic display team from UK enthralled the crowds

The US Lockheed Martin F 16 enthralling the crowds with a maneuver

The Swedish Air Force Saab Grippen 262 in full throttle





Our very own 'Suryakirans' displaying some formations

The Indian and the US para-jumpers had a live display for the crowd jumping of their aircrafts and landing amidst heavy cheers

The stealthy US Air force's C-17 Globemaster had a short take-off and landing displaying its capabilities

The agile warhorse - Sukhoi - Su30MkI of the IAF


more displays from the Yakovlevs enthralled the crowds

Our pride - LCA 'Tejas' showcased its flying capabilities amidst the loudest cheers

 The French Dasault Rafale 4-FF firing up the skies


The best of the lot was from the Skycat Wingwalkers -Scandinavian airshow aerobatics team that had the crowd hooting for more

Until the next event...Ciao! #Aeroindia #Aeroindia2017

Nov 26, 2016

Lava, North Bengal birding

view of K2 mountain range


I have traveled to the Kutch in the West, Ladakh in the North and most of the South region but never got an opportunity to explore the East beyond Kolkata. With a couple of spare days in March, I zoomed in on the place Lava located in North Bengal, a birder’s hot spot, for my next journey hoping this trip would be a gateway for more exploration of the East. Nishcay and Prabhu teamed up with me for the first time on this journey in search of some birds and wildlife.

I was pretty excited for the fact that many of the species I would be seeing would be lifers (i.e., never seen before) and while browsing through the internet, I stumbled upon Joseph Lepcha from Lava who agreed to be our host, guide and also plan our entire trip schedule.


We took the Indigo flight from Bengaluru to Bagdogra via Kolkata. Our car was ready at the airport to ferry us to the small village of Lava, about 120 kms away. Lava can be reached either via Gorubathan or Kalimpong from Bagdogra. We traveled via Gorubathan as the route via Kalimpong is unpredictable and caters to heavy traffic towards Sikkim. It took us about 4 hours to travel the distance with some good roads and also missing roads in between but our drive was comfortable owing the modified shocks of the WagonR that took on the rough stretches with ease.


We reached after nightfall and soon realized that we were in for a very cold surprise, it was cold owing to the higher altitude. Lava is also the entry point to the Neora Valley National Park. We then met Joseph Lepcha who showed us our place of stay and then we ended the long day with a hot supper and met few other birders who were there. Joseph also briefed us about our plan for the next 3 days.





Next day, we hit out early with Guru, our guide and driver for the day to cover the Rachet trails. We parked the vehicle at the start of the trail and started hiking on the Upper Rachet trail in quest of seeing as many species of birds as we could. Golden-naped Finch, Rufous-breasted Bush Robin, Whiskered Yuhina, a whole lot of Babblers and Warblers kept us entertained. As we progressed we realized that we had traversed a long distance and decided to descend down to Lower Rachet trail skipping going back to Lava for the brunch. It turned out to be a wise suggestion by Guru as we got to see a lone brilliant red colored Scarlet Finch as well as the Fire-tailed Sunbirds, Himalayan Blue Tail and many more of those colorful species.

After some steep downhill descent and navigating rocky stretches, we hit a trail from where we continued birding while Guru went on to fetch the vehicle. Evening time and the sun quickly fades out and hence we decided to end our session and travel back to Lava. Happy with our day’s bounty, we gulped down an early dinner and sat around Joseph to identify the birds we had seen.



Next day, we were out by 6:30 on our way towards Neora Valley National Park. We were to visit the Chaudapheri camp and Zero point inside the park and Joseph had procured the necessary permits beforehand. We just did not hit the camp but did a fair bit of walking on the trail to the camp birding while the vehicle followed. The weather in Neora valley was all cloudy and foggy, being located at a much higher altitude and as a result the bird activity were also low, they were around and audible but just not visible. Yet, we managed to sight the Green-tailed Sunbird, Scarlet Finch again, Brown Bullfinch, Mrs Gould’s Sunbird, Mountain Bulbul, Rufous-vented Yuhina and many more.



We halted at a place for the much needed breakfast and a breather while a Streaked Spiderhunter whizzed above us not wanting to perch anywhere. Neora valley also hosts the engendered Red Panda as well as the highly elusive but brilliantly colored Satyr Tragopan, but as with our luck we couldn’t sight either of them. Next time!
Chaudapheri camp located inside the park is the place where most of the tourists end their journey, have a cup of chai or some food and return back. It’s also the place where you can easily sight the Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Black-faced Laughingthrush and Eurasian Wren that come on to feed on the food waste put out for them. So, while the food is getting ready at the camp, you just sit out and watch them move around.






After the sumptuous simple lunch, we headed towards the Zero Point beyond which the core area falls and you are not allowed without additional permits. The weather here was foggier and visibility very low at many stretches and so was the bird activity. We came back to the camp to sight a flock of Yellow-billed Blue Magpie’s and were also treated to the calls of the Hill Partridges that were very vocal but not visible. We reached back Lava after dusk for some piping hot tea and snacks and went on a stroll around the village. Next day would be our final day at Lava.


Next morning, we waited for the sun to come out before heading out as it was a little foggy and ventured around the village for some birding. Grey Bushchat, Golden Bush Robin, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Green-backed Tit and many others were added to our list of birds sighted. After a productive session and some breakfast, we headed out towards the Pipeline trail. It’s a walk track next to the pipeline amidst thick vegetation that hosts a whole lot of birds. Having said that, hearing them is easier but not sighting them owing to the vast area and the dense foliage. The calls of the Great Barbet resonated through the valley while the Streaked Spiderhunter teased us flying high above while a Black Eagle soared just above our heads.






Next, we headed back to Lava for the much needed lunch and set out towards Alagarh road thereafter. The stretch until a couple of years ago was a birders dream stretch that housed many varieties and bounty sightings all along the single lane road stretch. But, currently as the road is being widened as it is a strategically important highway leading to Nathu La and the China border, the bird activity has reduced drastically owing to the work in progress. Rusty-fronted Barwing, Great Barbet, Golden-throated Barbet, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Whiskered Yuhina were the highlights from the stretch.



Next, as a final attempt on sighting the Red-billed Leoithrix, we headed towards Rishop, a village on the hills hoping to catch the common species that we had missed all along but alas we were not lucky enough to sight them. Next time, hopefully! We also missed the view of Kanchendzonga peak owing to cloud cover. Rishop has a whole lot of hotels, homestays that offer window views of K2 peak and it looked like a popular tourist getaway place.
Back at Lava, we went to the Monastery only to find it closed. Dinner time and conversations with Joseph Lepcha over various topics and recapping the hits and misses of our short stay at Lava. Next morning, we left Lava early in the same WagonR towards Bagdogra picking up some Darjeeling tea on the way at Siliguri.

Closing notes:
It was a short but productive trip and I enjoyed great company with Nischay and Prabhu. Joseph Lepcha was a very good host and good at birding. He guides people and groups on birding trails while not at his contractual duty with the forest department. Happy to have known him and hope more such local talent grow and prosper. He can be reached at +91 99320 95242 and the best time to contact him would be in the evenings when he would be back home.