Around Karnataka - 2009 - Preparation & Dandeli

Well...well... It was a coupe pulled off travelling for about 10 days around Karnataka in 2 consecutive years! All credit to my friends Raja, Guru and Nag who were the partners this time too... Well, this time rains shadowed half of our expedition, and more so this time around we had chosen very few locations but spending lots of time at each place... so there was no hurry in covering places and we had all the time to keep ourselves relaxed and enjoy every moment there! We had taken precautions to avoid few mistakes that happenned during last year's trip, this time Guru volunteered to get bookings done at Dandeli / Muthodi and Kemmangundi. But alas 2 days prior to our departure, he informed "Maga - Baibeda - ellu booking agilla" antha... !!??@#@#??!! Last minute glitches and heavy unbearable pressures on the mind - Leaves are all approved, plans are ready, everyone is in, permission granted at homes and now suddenly - No bookings done!!! OMG! Well, things do happen... and Lakkavalli / Ganeshgudi were the substitutes for Kulgi camp / Dandeli / Karwar / Kudremukha... and we were ready for our next jolt! Guru said he cant join us on the D-day. !!??@#@#??!! Finally convinced him and he convinced his boss and was agreed that he would be joining us 1 day later on Sunday morning at Dandeli! Better late than Never! Finally our plan was freezed as below: Bengaluru-Dandeli-Ganeshgudi-Magod falls-Sirsi-Yana-Agumbe-Lakkavalli-Basur Kaval-Bengaluru.

...but finally what we did was... Bengaluru-Ranebennur Blackbuck sanctuary-Dandeli-Ganeshgudi-Yellapura-Jenukal gudda viewpoint-Magod falls-Sirsi-Yana-Agumbe-Lakkavalli-Muthodi-Basur Kaval-Bengaluru.

The news of rains was slowly dripping in as we made preparations for the trip ahead..., the rains being a cause for concern at homes and finally on the night of 1st Oct 2009 at around 9pm, me raja and nag left bangalore on another expedition with guru set to join us the on 3rd in dandeli. Rains started off as we started to move out of Bangalore and it poured, poured like never before and reaching Yeshwanthpur junction to pick up Nag and then crossing Nelamangala took the energy out of me and I was damn to tired all because of the stress, rains, traffic, jams and the clock showing as 1am! Somehow I could manage till Sira, then realizing needed a break with the rains still pouring heavily, we just parked on the roadside and slept!!! I woke up only a good 2 hours later, with the rains just subsiding, allowing us to proceed ahead. The highway roads halfway were good, some places bad, some worse and with the rains intermittently plying, this was a slow, cautious drive!

As we approached Ranebennur, signs of the repeating Blackbuck sanctuary singboards just ahead just ahead made us take a detour to get in a quick visit there. (For those who dont know, Ranebennur Blackbuck sanctuary is the largest Blackbuck reserve in Karnataka). Well we were greeted to locked gates at 10am... we just jumped inside as the bird life was very inviting and took a short walk down the alley.

1.Lots of Hoopoe 2.Jungle Babblers 3.Racket tailed drongo 4.Spotted Dove 5.Bay backed shrike 6.Sunbirds 7.Bay backed Shrike 8.Brahminy Starling 9.Bushchats kept us company all along ....with hungry people on board :), it was a sure stop at Ranebennur to refuel our stomachs as the sun was also up and the destination still far away. The journey started again and still the rain gods were reluctant to leave and as we were nearing dandeli, i was feeling the tiredness now...! Raja took over the seat, rains started pouring again, and finally we managed to reach Dandeli town by 1pm. 15+ hours of journey in my Alto and we were tired(without doing anything!!!).

Next we booked a room at "State Lodge" right opposite to the bus stand, that was quite famous on the net as the best option for lodging here(Well we spotted quite a few lodges around but didn't explore them), so not a problem finding accomodation at Dandeli is the end quote. Made enquiries about the safari, timber yard, and hotels around, made our plans for the next day morning, booked for a safari early next morning and then planned for a visit to the Timber Yard (timber depot or the Forest office) nearby. Rains were merciless, so stayed indoors after food and was shocked by the news on tv at the magnitude of devastation at Mantralayam, Raichur, Gulbarga, Bijapur and other places due to the floods.

3rd Oct 2009 - The weather was still playing traunt as we left for the safari at 6am. For the safari ride, all jeeps have to pay the entrance and register at Anshi office (by this we got a chance to see the Anshi camp - next time will be there!). The safari was a very wet ride because of the rains and we were taken to the viewpoint inside the sanctuary area, from where sunrise is visible!!! All mist, mist and rains, no signs of wildlife at all. After a 2.5 hour drive, we were back at Dandeli town to find Guru waiting for us there. Nice to see him join the gang!

Then breakfast time and we decided to see the Timber yard area as we didnt want to miss it, the rains had subdued a bit, but still overcast! Inside the campus, past the forest offices, we parked our car near the 4 road junction and started walking. Hornbills was our sole intention and still we got to see the Hill Mynah, Brahminy Kites, a lone unidentified raptor (should be a Crested Hawk Eagle), Yellow Wagtails and the Malabar Giant Squirrel but no signs of the Hornbill! After a long walk of about 90 minutes amongst the timber trees and wild bushes we were back to the car and ready to leave when just heard some noises above us to spot the hornbills fly above! Relief! Ran behind them chasing till they roosted on the trees - they were not at all comfortable with us in their sights and constantly moved around keeping a safe distance from us. Still we managed a few shots that made us happy amongst the dull weather and something to cheer from Dandeli. From here we moved to Ganeshgudi JLR Old Magazine camp where our booking for the next 2 days was done! Well thats in part 2 of our long trip... Read it here

Care for the nature and the nature cares for you!

Ganeshgudi - JLR Old Magazine House camp

Read the Part I here... Ganeshgudi – A wonderful getaway place

A place we would have rued missing. As per our Anveshane II plans, Ganeshgudi was not even in our thinking, but last minute glitches made me call JLR and enquiring for bookings at Ganeshgudi JLR. As we were / are budget conscious and Ganeshgudi is the only place where dormitory bookings are available we booked four beds for 2 nights at 900/- per person through the online booking portal www.junglelodges.com.

We were 4 of us travelling in our Alto car and the previous day we checked into State lodge @ Dandeli town with the intention of safari / bird watching there. Rains throughout the day marred our plans; still we did some birding @ the department Timber Yard (Forest office) and also the safari in the Dandeli Anshi Tiger reserve irrespective of the rains. Hornbills were a pleasure to watch in the timber yard but no sightings in the reserve, only rains and rains.

3rd Oct 2009 - We checked in to Jungle lodges at Ganeshgudi after driving the 35 odd kms from Dandeli, the road stretch was ok if not great! The place, environment, surroundings cast a spell on us as soon as we landed there and the warm welcome extended spiced up our moods to no end. Being a weekend the bookings were full and ours were the last 4 beds booked there. Rains were plying intermittently with no respite and instantly we decided on relaxing and enjoying if the same weather continued, meanwhile we were getting news of floods marooning Karnataka which was a worrying factor.

After a heavy tasty lunch, birding was the only activity we did around the place carrying an umbrella wherever we went. We walked around the place and on to the main road till we were tired and got some good shots of the sunbird couple over there. Evening time it was a good meeting over tea with few of the other nature lovers who were camping there and exchanges of ideas on photography tips and bird ID’s. The Black Panther sighting was the hot topic for discussion. In this camp, Tarantula giant spiders (I hope the naming is right) and a Scorpion family are residents near to the walk way and they are primarily nocturnal. So carrying a huge torch, using the flash and capturing them on the cameras was the routine in the evenings. The aura is such that after 6 pm, it gets so dark and with absolutely no vehicular movement to disturb your ears, and as we are been used to honking and traffic all day, you feel like you are in heaven! The day ends by 6pm when darkness engulfs and there is nothing to do except gulping down KF or savage on the dinner served.

--> Tarantula spider above; Scorpion below <--

4th Oct 2009 - eventful day – The rains had slightly let up in the morning after lavishing the entire night and we could see the bright sun poking in between the trees assuring us of some bright day and time for activities. We drove till the bridge across the Supa River for some bird watching (mainly for the hornbills) and yes we got to see the Malabar Pied flying just above our heads crossing the stream. The big Black Eagle too made its presence felt with a distant sighting only. Near the bridge, there is a small path leading to the rafting point through an estate, we just walked through the path for some distance and birding was very eventful there with many to see and lots to hear.

--> Fairy Blue Bird above; Malabar Pied Hornbill below <--

We rushed back for the breakfast (how can we ever miss it) and all the other guests were leaving, and so @ lunch time, we only 4 of us were there as guests (Also new bookings for the day was cancelled because of the incessant rains and floods that was creating havoc everywhere). With nothing to do, we chose to walk or rather trek around the JLR camp on a path nonexistent with the able guidance of the JLR staff Joma. He was such a wonderful person having a keen interest in bird watching, guiding and helping us all along the way. Salutes to the senior citizen!

--> Yellow browed Bulbul above <--

At his age he was so agile and full of zeal and enthusiasm and he could quickly spot the birds hearing the calls among the greens with precision and we would just be searching where where! May his tribe increase and wish to have more of his guidance and expertise on our next visit to Ganeshgudi. Again heavy meal and some rest, later in the evening we went near the Supa dam area and walked around the banks for some good Hornbill sightings. But rains, rains and rains marred our plans, still we walked around the banks and finally came back retiring for the day. Around the campus are, the Malabar Whistling Thrush was stalking me through the evening but unfortunately never ever got to see it!

5th Oct 2009 - The last half a day at this wonderful place and we were already convinced we had to be here back soon. Our initial idea of Rafting at Ganeshgudi was out of the window because of rains and water not being released from the Supa dam. Birding in the rain was not that fun as they tend not to come out and managing your cameras and umbrella together is a tough task, and the happiest ones are the leeches who relish rains and they are practically everywhere. After a good hot cup of tea we chose to be driven to the backwaters and the viewpoint nearby. One of the viewpoints is on the roadside that offers an endless view of the water everywhere, and we got to know that 4 rivers join into the backwaters. Supa dam is the second largest in the state and has got a huge catchment area of 1057 sq. kms and it serves as a storage area for 4 other dams constructed at lower heights. So water is released only when the 4 dams need them and rafting is possible only then! Being adventurous we chose to walk amidst the dense growth to a watch tower in the middle of nowhere overlooking the backwaters. The sight was simply amazing, greenery all along one side and water on the other as far as you can see. Leeches, Wood spiders and many others were present all along the way and it was a good walk amongst the dense Western Ghats range.

Came back and were treated to a royal mouth watering breakfast and later we bid goodbye to the team who were so courteous, generous and hospitable. But one thought that ringed through my mind all along was – Why are there no dormitories in other JLR properties? Thanks to Joma, Pundalik, Praveen, Mohan (regret I can’t recollect all the names!) for making our stay a memorable one.

The list of our sightings went something like this…1.Malabar Pied Hornbill 2.Malabar Trogan 3.Malabar Whistling thrush (only calls) 4.Indian Grey Hornbill 5.Purple Rumped Sunbird 6.Loten’s Sunbird 7.White Cheeked Barbet 8.Orange Minivets 9.Racket tailed Drongo 10.Rose ringed Parakeet 11.Weaver bird 12.Golden Flameback Woodpecker 13.Green Pigeon 14.Indian Robin 15.Brahminy Kite 16.Black Eagle 17.Yellow Wagtail 18.Golden fronted Leafbird 19.Oriental white eye 20.Heart spotted Woodpecker 21.White breasted Kingfisher 22.Swift 23.Red Whiskered Bulbul 24.Tarantula spider 25.Scorpion 26.Yellow browed Bulbul 27.Fairy Bluebird 28.Giant Wood Spiders and more...

Part III continued here...

Care for the nature and the nature cares for you!