Showing posts with label lrk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lrk. Show all posts

Jan 9, 2014

Gujarat Diaries - Important Information

Gujarat Diaries so far...

Phew! Finally after a year has passed by, I’ve reached a stage to culminate the Gujarat Diaries that was a splendid two week outing in the dry/wet lands of Gujarat.

It would not have been possible to do this trip of mine without the help that Falguna Shah extended, she gave some critical inputs and importantly patched me up with some good contacts so that I had the best of people with me.

Chirag at Jamnagar and Jugal bhai at Great Rann were excellent hosts and I enjoyed immensely in their company and also got to see a whole lot of new things and was also treated to some delicious mouth-watering Gujarathi food all through my stay.

I traveled by rail, bus, cabs, and auto and on every journey met interesting people and was witness to sheer diversity of life and the way people go about it, got to learn quite a lot of things interacting with many different people.

Velavadar National Park (Blackbuck National Park)
Accommodation: Forest Rest House situated right inside the park.
Contact: 0278 2880342 / 0278 2920222 / 0278 2426425 (ACF, Bhavnagar)

Reach: about 140kms from Ahmadabad, about 50kms from Bhavnagar (nearest railhead)
Alternate: http://theblackbucklodge.com

Note: Need to have only vehicle to move around in the park.
Referred Guide: Ramzan +91 8140810087


(the FRH at Velavadar Blackbuck National Park)


Little Rann of Kutch (LRK)
Accommodation: Bhava Resort & Farm (http://bhavnafarm.com)
Contact: Prashanth (owner) +91 9427216059, +91 9427216069

Reach: about 90kms from Ahmadabad, Viramgam about 35kms is the nearest railhead
Refereed Guide: Pratap bhai +91 9714190990

Alternate: www.littlerann.com at Dhrangadhra, +91 9825548090
www.rannriders.com at Dasada, +91 9925236014
www.theroyalsafaricamp.com at Bajana, +91 2757 293222
www.desertcoursers.net at Zainabad, +91 9426372113, +919427066070



(the interior of a 'Kooba' I stayed at Bhavna Farms)



Jamnagar (birding around Dichda, Marine National Park, Lakhota lake, Narara, Balachadi)
Accommodation: Hotel President (www.hotelpresident.in/)
Referred Birding guide and Planner: Chirag Joshi +91 9274909880


Great Rann of Kutch (GRK)
Accommodation: CEDO (www.cedobirding.com), Moti Virani
Jugal Tiwari +91 9825248135, +91 2835 221284, cedoindia@yahoo.com

Reach: 50kms from Bhuj
Alternate: www.kutchsafaribhuj.com



(Jugal's CEDO camp at Moti Virani)

Please note this information is mainly for those who are interested in wildlife and or bird watching and or wildlife photography in Gujarat.

Nov 5, 2013

Gujarat Diaries - The case of the missing wallet!


Gujarat diaries so far...


With my travels all being planned through local transport in Gujarat, I was dropped at Viramgam junction from Bhavna resorts to board my next train to Jamnagar that would reach there at odd hours in the morning; departing by 10pm and reaching Jamnagar by 3am. I had booked myself a First Class (FC – non AC) ticket, a decision I’m bound to praise myself for the rest of my life).

3 days in the Rann, jeep rides, sore back, blistering heat and less sleep was slowly having its effect but a new destination, new people, new sightings kept me going well. I boarded the train and was guided to my berth by the smiling TC who reminded me to set an alarm as not to miss my station being wee hours.

I was in a kind of inebriated state wanting to just sleep for those 3-4 hours of the journey to be fighting fit ahead of my rigorous schedule at Jamnagar that awaited me. Soon, I was joined by a companion who was traveling all the way to Porbandar.

Greetings exchanged and as just the thought of dozing off came to my mind, the person who looked eager, started off a conversation. Being polite, I answered most of his questions about various things and that’s when the conversation changed its direction. More than an hour passed by and the conversation (now being mostly one sided) seemed not ending and it was just going on and know what, the person was trying to influence me on a ‘religion’ and its benefits…

God! This was now getting too much on me! Firstly, I was sleeping sick. Secondly, I have my own beliefs and faith in my religion. In spite of communicating the same, the person was in no mood to let me go also apologizing for keeping me awake! Time-out! I had enough of it and by now my strained eyes was gleaming red and I just woke up from my berth and looking at the person with reddish eyes said, I want to sleep now! That was it..; I got my rightful berth within the next minutes. The clock showed 12am by now, darn, just about 2 hours sleep left before I alight!

Just as I thought I had slept, the alarm went off and it was time to wake up, pack up and leave. With weary eyes, I woke up, rested for a while till the station arrived and got off at Jamnagar station at 3am on time. Chiku aka Chirag was yet to arrive and the next 10 minutes were spent at the station waiting.

Soon, Chiku arrived and we went to the car, and once in, he inquired 'how’s it going so far…?' I replied… 'so far so good' simultaneously checking my pockets for all the things I had kept and soon touched the buttock pocket for my wallet…!


Gosh! Wallet missing!!!

I ran back to the station to see if I had dropped it around only not to find it there. Stuck in the middle of nowhere with just a few rupees in the pocket, I felt all lost and dingy. Luckily, I had kept less cash in the wallet but had the all important cards in it! My mind was all junked up at the moment and couldn’t think of what next! I was humbled by our driver’s statement that he would drop me home and not to get worried, the statement came out in a flash and Chirag to reassured not to worry about money.

The savior there, Chirag then accompanied me to the station to the TC’s office and luckily we found him there (just as if waiting for us at 3am). Soon, I told the happenings and my lost wallet and promptly he swung into action and called the TC who was onboard the train. I was all impatient and tense to hear the result of his conversation with the TC on train.

As a silver lining in the sky, the news came out that the TC has secured my wallet from my FC berth compartment. The grief that had enveloped me minutes ago was now replaced with a wide grin and countless thanks to the TC both at the station and on the train. The TC on board the train informed us that he would return it back to us at Jamnagar station the same night when the train would resume its return journey from Porbandar.

After the reassurance that all would end well, I was dropped to the hotel to catch a few hours sleep as we had to leave by 6am. As I sat in the room, thinking of where and how it had slipped, it soon flashed that I had kept the wallet on the berth while fast asleep and had forgotten to take it while leaving the train. Incidentally, I had also not switched on the main lamp in the compartment (just used the bed lamp) so as not to disturb the other passenger for which I had to pay this price!

Much reassured now, the day went in a flash with me being busy in birding all day long and we were back in the station by midnight awaiting the arrival of the train. Chirag, even after the hectic day took me to the station on his bike to collect my wallet. Soon, the train arrived and as we were searching for the FC coach, the TC who was standing near the door waved to me taking me by surprise.

The wallet was back in my hand and pleasantries exchanged with the TC and I was much overjoyed and relieved. We wanted to appreciate the TC’s help monetarily, but he blatantly refused stating it was just his duty. Jai ho sirjee!

The saga that started at 3am ended by 1am after some nerve wracking moments that probably I may not forget sooner. But, what till date hurts me is that I forgot to take the TC’s name so that at least I could have sent an appreciation letter to him for his good deed.

I’m happy that good deeds do happen and good people do exist! Thank you Lord!


Note: This is a real incident that happened to me during my Gujarat trip last year.

countless thanks to Chirag, our driver, the TC guards and to Indian Railways.



coming up next: Jamnagar Jatra...stay tuned!

Oct 30, 2013

Rann Diaries - Wild Asses

Gujarat diaries so far...


The Indian Wild Ass (Equus hemionus khur) also called as khur, is a subspecies of the Asiatic Wild Ass species. The Indian Wild Ass sanctuary is one of the last places where the endangered Indian Wild Ass is found. It’s heartening enough to see them thriving and in good numbers in the Little Rann of Kutch in Gujarat.



Wild Asses are fast runners clocking speeds in the range of 70-80 km/hour and can easily outrun a jeep and what I observed is that they are instant runners, i.e., a distant sound and they start galloping and seeing this behavior almost every time I saw these wild asses made me come up with the below –



An ass started running and all the other asses followed him; they ran, ran till one ass stopped to look why they were running and the other asses stopped to look why the one ass stopped running.”



Well, taking it on a lighter note, that’s how I felt as I saw them mostly running. Only a few of them were at ease with us in their sight. I wonder, is it because the jeeps that come make them run to get ‘those shots’ or is their instinct to take off every time. Also, to be considered is that they do not have any natural predators to fear (except the wolves that would target the colts rather than grown adults). Yet, they are the flagship species of Rann and its pleasing to see them thriving in good numbers and expanding their domain to favorable areas.


next up is the 'Jamnagar Jatra'... stay tuned :)

Oct 8, 2013

Rann Diaries - Day 2

Gujarat Diaries so far...



After a mixed hectic first day, next morning was a quick starter with the jeep all set and Pratap bhai coming on time. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouses were the toast for the morning, they are so beautifully camouflaged that its very difficult to spot them in the Rann and if you have seen one or two, you would have missed a dozen that would be right next to you and as you approach them closer, they all fly away in unison with a ‘phurrrr’...


After the patient session with the sandgrouses, then came the herd of wild asses and I was next busy occupied seeing and shooting various water birds, from flamingos to pelicans, to shovelers to gulls.


As Pratap bhai had to leave early, I called it a day for the session as going around without a person who knows the place is like searching a needle in a haystack... very difficult, every location looks the same and an untrained eye can never see anything unless its closer and in your view. With the early coming in, got more time to relax and enjoy the meal spread.



For the evening session, Pratap’s brother accompanied me and he was equally good as Pratap in sighting birds and identifying them. The evening belonged to the raptors, kestrels, harriers were there everywhere and it was a sight to the sore eyes seeing some of them coming to roost after dusk.


Literally, as the sun went down, the Rann looked like infested with harriers everywhere, all of them roosting and at one time I could see 8-10 individuals just around me, but albeit all at a safe distance from me. I tried getting some ground level shots of a couple of them but with absolutely no light around, it was a tough ask. Another interesting note was the female harriers were more co-operative and didn’t mind my approach than the males who took off every time I tried to approach them!


Next day would be a ‘mega day’ with loads of action… stay tuned :)

Sep 11, 2013

Rann Diaries - LRK special

Here are the Gujarat diaries update so far...

I would be presenting some photo blogs of some individual species interspersed with my Rann diaries travelogues to highlight their importance and beauty.



First on the list is the Globally threatened Macqueen’s Bustard (Chlamydotis macqueenii) formerly treated as con-specific with Houbara Bustard. Bustard’s are primarily land birds and are low distance flyers and their population in total has decreased drastically owing to hunting and habitat destruction. The Great Indian Bustard (one of our pride species) is almost on the verge of disappearing owing to its habitat loss and pity it doesn’t receive as much attention as the Tiger.



They breed in deserts and other very arid sandy areas. Measuring 60cms long with a wingspan of 140cms, it’s a pretty big bird when seen in the field but very elusive and shy. Interestingly Macqueen’s Bustard is vocally almost silent. They typically lay 2-4 eggs on the ground and are omnivorous in diet.


I had to spend close to two hours in getting a good view of this species in the vast grassland, it being very elusive and shy. Small sounds from our end and it would disappear into the dry grass, typically sitting down amidst the tally dry grass and often putting its head up to observe the surroundings.



Finally, after persuasive tactics, and patience, got to see the bustard at viewing distance, probably once it got used to our presence in the area. But, in doing that, I had covered the entire grassland on foot, crawling, kneeling and running to catch a glimpse of it!

All episodes from Velavadar Diaries here...

Sep 1, 2013

Rann Diaries - Little Rann of Kutch

Apologies on the onset, this would be a series of posts, I'm trying to share as much as I can but it never seems sufficient...!



After a wonderful start to my Gujarat sojourn at Velavadar, off we came back to Ahmedabad with Falguna getting me dropped at the railway station to proceed towards Chote Rann or LRK. As I was traveling solo, I chose the public transport often hopping on to the rails and bus services to commute between the places I intended to visit and I had a gala of a time commuting by public transport meeting so many unique individuals and witness to the world pass by as the train chugged along.

Viramgam Junction is the nearest railway station to Little Rann of Kutch, just about 70kms from Ahmedabad, and the town Patdi (my place of stay) about 30kms further away from Viramgam railway station. I chose to stay at Bhavna Resort & Farm, a place not known to many and surprisingly located very close to the Indian Wild AssSanctuary, the sanctuary I had planned to visit. Also, by choosing to stay here, I chose to stay away from the regular jaunt of photographers/birdwatchers that prefer to stay at the Rann Riders / Royal Safari Camp or other places located a little far away from the sanctuary premises.

I boarded the Somnath Express and landed in Viramgam Jn at midnight and the vehicle from the resort was waiting for me at the station to take me to Bhavna farms at Patdi. With dreary eyes too, I was impressed by the appearance of the cottage and the interiors in particular, made up very well and I instantly dozed off after a long tiring day of travel.

Morning made me appreciate the property I was staying better, especially the cottages, locally known as Koobas, that were well equipped with a typical traditional appearance that would make you appreciate the efforts behind it. Geared up for Rann, met Prashanth, the owner of the property who briefed me about the plans for the day that sounded very promising. I was to have a jeep with me entirely for the 3 days I would be staying there and Pratap bhai (from the forest department) would be guiding me around and Pravin was the driver.

Armed with packed breakfast, all ready with battle gear, off I went on my first sojourn in the Rann, the Little Rann of Kutch with my permits inside the Wild Ass Sanctuary to sight new birds, birds and birds, all pumped up and excited.

With just a little distance inside the sanctuary, the jeep refused to budge ahead and conked off…! Well, the old Mahindra was showing its age with pomp and glee and my excited face was now turning into a hot red beacon. We tried to exchange our vehicle with another (driven by a more experienced person) from the same resort but will little success as the problem with the vehicle continued for the entire duration we were inside!

Well, the best part of the Rann sanctuary is that once you enter, you can stay in for the entire day without the need to come back and go again in the afternoon that helps save a lot of time but we chose to go back to the resort for lunch as the sun was too harsh and the erratic jeep helping no end and even Pratap suggesting taking a break from the hot sun.


Still, with the agonizing jeep, I got to see my first sights of the Common Cranes, Greater Flamingo’s and more than a couple of Tawny Eagle’s and many other bird species in Rann. Disturbed by the roaring of the sick jeep, we got to see a Desert Fox run for cover and safety from us.


Trudging slowly along, revving the jeep continuously, flamingo’s, harriers, kestrels, eagle’s, Wheatears, Whimbrels, and the star of the Rann – The Indian Wild Ass greeting us all along, and while close to a water source, got to see a couple of ‘Common Shelduck’s disappear into horizon (they are considered vagrant and elusive in Rann as I was told) and to add, the sightings of the Dalmatian Pelicans helped me regain my enthusiasm and excitement.


I came back to the resort with mixed reactions hoping the evening session would be rid of glitches. The food served was good with a menu of authentic Gujarati cuisine and I enjoyed the hot mouth watering food on all the days I stayed. A quick nap and I would again be back in the Rann. Evenings are considered more suitable for the raptors as they come back to roost and if there is good light you could get some wonderful frames with the setting sun in the background. Alas! The setting sun was probably miffed with me because for some reason or other, never got to see the famed view of sunset in Rann as the clouds played spoilsport all the days I was in Rann.


Again charged up and with the news that the vehicle was fixed and ready, got into Rann and the dry desert was buzzing with activity either with the sighting of birds or the charismatic Wild Ass. Sooner than latter, the jeep conked off again with now a problem with the oil filter made me go into a frenzy mood again, but was controlled better and there were no major stoppages for the evening.

As we roamed around looking for raptors and owls, the highlight of the day was the sighting of the Short-eared Owl at striking distance from the vehicle taking both of us by surprise, it took a few seconds for the birdie to realize and those few seconds were sufficient for me to capture couple of shots and then it flew away into thick growth that was beyond our vehicle’s reach and a ghastly view of bone littered ‘hyaena’ den area marked the end of the day for me as I came back with happy.


Oh yes!, I forgot about the Peregrine Falcon that put in a late appearance after dusk, just as we were racing to leave the sanctuary premises as it was late. I've always been fascinated by this beautiful bird of prey, the fastest flyer and an incredibly powerful bird. I've hardly seen it a couple of times and none have been long enough... awaiting my date with the powerful Falcon soon...


to be continued...

Dec 14, 2012

Rann'ed...


The state of Gujarat is one among the few emerging states of India and is famous for its investment friendly government and the infrastructure as well as the plain lands of the Kachch and the vast coastline. For those unaware, the state of Gujarat has been one of the main centers of the Indus valley civilization and its per capita GDP is higher than the national average. In short, its an emerging state.

Coming to where I’m interested, Gujarat has about 7.4% of its total geographical area under forest cover. It has four national parks and 21 sanctuaries. It’s the only home of the endangered Asiatic lions outside Africa. Detailed discoveries and researches have shown that Gujarat is home to one of the largest clutch of dinosaur hatcheries in the world. From the tourism perspective, Gujarat is one of the most popular states in the country for tourism with the attractions being the Gir lions to the Marine National park to the plains of Kutch and being home to personnel like Mahatma Gandhi and Sardar Vallabhai Patel.

I’m currently on a wildlife and birding tour of Gujarat covering the below places. Yes, I’m skipping Gir this time that has a plan to be covered separately with my friends.


Blackbuck Natioanl Park, Velavadar
It’s situated in the Bhavnagar district of Gujarat and spreading over a area of 34sqkm, the grassland is home to the Blackbuck Antelopes, the Wolf and the endangered Lessar Florican among others. During the winters, large number of migrant birds like the Harriers, Falcons, Kestrels roost in the grasslands that also signifies its importance as a biodiversity hub supporting vast forms of life.


Jamnagar

Lying in the Jamnagar district and just south of the Gulf of Kutch and is also known as the Oil city of India. Khijadia bird sanctuary located just 10kms from the city is considered one of the important sites for ecological research and education. It’s a combination of freshwater lakes, saltpans, saline land and mangrove scrub habitats supporting vast varieties of birdlife, both resident and migratory. India’s first marine sanctuary, the Marine National Park is located here in the Arabian sea and is famous for its coral reefs and mangroves.


Little Rann of Kutch
Its primarily a salt marsh and is famous as the world’s last refuge of the Indian Wild Ass conservation and is also know as the Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary. Its an ecologically important area for wildlife and many local and migrant bird species that refuge here. The traditional salt panning activity is one concern that is threatening to destroy the entire ecology of the region.


Greater Rann of Kutch
The GRK is a seasonal salt marsh located in the Thar desert in the Kutch district of Gujarat and is reputed to be the largest salt desert in the world. This is one of the hottest areas of India with summer temperatures peaking up to 50degC and winter temperatures often going below 0degC. In winters, GRK is a breeding ground for flamingoes and pelicans and is the only place in India where flamingoes come to breed. The marshes are also a resting place for migratory birds and are home to over 200 species of birds.


Ciao soon :)